Monday, March 23, 2020

Back in the Bahamas-2020


After spending a great summer at home and camp in NY's Adirondacks and a wonderful warm winter in Jensen Beach we are back on the water.

Off to Abacoe- March 12th
    With the boat loaded with provisions for the next 3 months we set off south for Lake Worth inlet under sunny skies and a lite east wind. Conditions were not predicted to be ideal but with no better weather predicted for at least 2 weeks we decided to go. Many have asked us what our track will be this year after much of the Abacoes being decimated by hurricane Dorian. We considered bypassing this  area but as we rarely depend on local services this early in the trip went ahead with our normal route. We were able to bring some supplies for our friend Donnie at Green Turtle and planned on volunteering there on the many rebuilding projects.

Crossing over- woke at 3:30 am preparing to leave when a crash and shouting brought me racing on deck to find a neighboring sailboat against our bow. Thankfully no damage ensued and they didn't get tangled in our anchor chain. I will admit that with the current running at 3 knots it would be easy to miscalculate distances in the dark.
    We were soon off under starry skies motoring into a lumpy sea with lite east winds.  The day continued like this as the headwinds built and the chop became uncomfortable. Finally made Memory Rock at 4:30 where we had lots of fishing action. Once we were transiting the shallow water of the Bahama Bank the seas calmed and we finally dropped anchor at Mangrove Cay at 8:30. A much longer day than usual as we were only able to make 5 knots with the engine running strong. Normally 6.5 is our cruising speed but later found our prop and hull were covered with a collection of barnacles. My bad for not diving on the boat before leaving but the water in our river isn't condusive to swimming. Fuel consumption was double our usual and I was getting concerned that we might have to become an actual sailboat.

Sat morning once again dawned sunny with the expected headwinds so we decided to detour north and visit one of our old haunts of Grand Cay. This is the northernmost island in the Bahamas and in a haven for sportfisherman. Wouldn't you know that the wind died early on and we were once again motoring all day to anchor by 5:30.

Grand Cay
     Having seen utube videos of the destruction to this area we were pleasantly surprised to find the tiny town in much better shape than expected. Docks in the protected harbor were in the process of being rebuilt and many roofs had been replaced. Being rather low on fuel I was concerned to find only gas available at Rosies Marina.  Rosie came to the rescue draining 10 gal out of the towns generator tank. No cell service here yet but a local has set up a satellite link and we were able to use wifi for a  fee of $10 for 2 weeks, it only worked in his yard and that had turned into the locals hang out.

Double Breasted Cay
     After 2 nights at Grand we moved the short sail south to one of my favorite spots in this area. This tiny grouping of islands is rarely visited by cruisers and we enjoyed the tranquility.


Allens-Pensacola
    With a fresh breeze we finally were able to sail south to this protected anchorage and get back to our normal track. We were surprised to find 3 other boats anchored as we  had seen very little boat traffic thus far on our journey. In the morning we hiked to the oceanside beach and found the signing tree still standing and many signs still there. As usual the beach was pristine and we considered staying but the winds were predicted to turn south and we would be here for the next few days with no phone service.

The signing tree survived- Allens Pensacola oceanside


Manjack Cay
    Motoring south once again into a nasty chop all day  we anchored in the protected cove along with about 5 other cruisers. We spent 2 nights here enjoying hikes on the island trails and time on the beaches. Stopped in to see friends Bill and Leslie who have had a homestead here for many years living off grid. Were pleased to see that they had very little damage but were surprised to learn that they rode out the hurricane here. One of the oceanside beaches we visited had amazing piles of timbers, trusses and general lumber piled high into the woods while others were pristine.

Green Turtle Cay  
       Moving south the short hop to our destination it was amazing to see the devastation. Only 6 miles southeast of Manjack this island was stripped of vegetation with destroyed buildings at every turn. Having seen videos from the settlement of New Plymouth we knew what to expect but still found the damage horrible. New buildings as well as old would be destroyed when one next door was untouched. Arriving at Donnies where he had a mooring waiting for us the protected harbor was a mess, Donnie had rebuilt some of his docks and made his home liveable but the rest of the harbor was a jumble of destroyed homes and boats tossed up into the woods. A sad site indeed.
Donnys after Hurricane Dorian .jpg
Donnies  post Dorian
Donnies today- left wing removed, new roof, gutted interior


Corona Virus- with restrictions in place much stricter than those in the states construction has come to a standstill and all of the volunteer groups have flown home. Of the few boats at Donnies most were Canadiens who have flown home in fear of the borders closing. We feel quite safe being self isolated on board and have plenty of supplies to keep us for months. Fuel and groceries are in good supply and water is supplied free by a portable R/O plant run by Water Mission. As I write this we are anchored back at Manjack Cay with no other boats in sight. We will miss the comradery of  beach parties with other boaters but for now all are keeping to ourselves. The govt has issued a 9pm curfew and also no one is allowed to enter anothers home. Inter island travel is restricted so we may stay in Abacoes for a while.
secluded anchorage-Manjack north end




social distancing

the welcoming committee





   

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