South to Georgetown

Fri,May 21st- Headed out early under blue skies and a brisk north wind. Great sail the 40 miles to Georgetown/Elizabeth Harbor. Trailed 3 lines and only caught 1 big Barracuda that we didn't keep (to big to eat, seems a shame but the big ones carry ciguatera which can make you very ill.) Lost a big fish but it probably was bigger than we would have been able to get aboard. Anchored at volleyball beach mid afternoon . The harbor is huge with at least 4 anchorages but hardly any crowd at all. We have been told that during the winter there were 400 boats here, now we count about 25 total.

Caves near Little Farmers

Beach at Stocking Island, Georgetown

Sat thru Tues May 25th- Have enjoyed a few sunny hot days moving about this great area. Spent a night at each of the popular anchorages: Hamburger beach, Sanddollar beach and Kidds Cove. Was great to be able to reprovision as our stock of fresh veggies, beer and wine were depleted. I can see why so many boats spend the winter here as the town really caters to boaters. Hiking trails and beaches on Stocking Island were great. It will be interesting to return here some day during the winter when the place is busy with regatta and all the resident cruisers.

Wed- After enjoy ing a great dinner of fresh caught grilled Mahi and sushi aboard Desdemona, a boat we have traveled with intermittently since Abacoe, we parted ways in the morning as they continue south and we are now headed back north. This was as far as we planned on exploring and the time has come to work our way back to Fl. After a day of motorsailing in light winds we anchored off the beautiful Misha Cay (Island Resort owned by David Copperfield) and dined on fresh caught Spanish Mackeral.

Thurs- Lazy day exploring our way to Farmers Cay. Stopped along the way for snorkeling at a few spots hoping for some conk but no luck.

Exumas

Fri, May 7th- After a walk thru town for shopping and laundry(oops- no laundrymat here) we sailed across to cape Eleuthera where we anchored for the night just off the marina there. There was a sportfish tournament going on with dozens of big sportfish boats at docks. The first boat we stopped at was cleaning dolfin and offered us a full fillet. Had a great dinner with balance going into freezer. They were after Marlin but apparently not having much luck.

Sat- Sailing by 8 am under warm blue skies and perfect wind. Trailed 3 lines hoping for fish in the 3000ft deep water of Exuma sound. 30 miles later never had a strike but was great sailing. Picked up a mooring at Warderick Wells which is the hq for the Exuma land & Sea park. Joined about 20 other boaters ashore for campfire and partying on beach.

Sun, Mothers Day- Another hot sunny day. We actually used fans during the night and put up sun awning to keep cool for the first time this trip. Hiked about the island in morning followed by some great snorkeling in 82 deg water in the afternoon. Feasted on conk fritters and the last of our frozen venision for dinner.

Mon, May 10th Thru Sat May 15th- After a few beautiful warm calm days the wind picked up and howled at about 20-25 kts for 5 days. Since we were in a great spot we decided to wait out the winds. We spent our days snorkeling on great reefs, many in protected spots close the anchorage. The variety of colorful fish is amazing due to the fact that no fishing or taking of any sealife is allowed in the 176 sq mile park that stretches along 22 miles of the island chain. I spent 4 mornings volunteering making up eye splices in 1-1/4 inch mooring lines. Hiking on the islands very rough trails and lounging around on some of the remote beaches filled our afternoons.
The Sat evening party on the beach was well attended as all 22 moorings were full with many boats having spent the week.

Sun, May 16th- The trade winds have finally subsided and we had a great sail south to Staniel Cay under reefed main and jib. We anchored in the lee of Big Majors Island as one of the resident wild pigs roamed the beach. This area is where the James Bond film Thunderball was made and our plans were to snorkle the famous Thunderball Cave. I have been having ear problems so this may have to be put on hold until they clear up.

Mon- To town for supplies, dingy gas and propane. We found what Island time was really about when it took nearly 2 hours to get our propane filled, then a half hour wait for gas. Groceries were very limited and beer was $80 a case with wine being equally expensive(needeless to say we will make due with what we have). Sailed south in the afternoon beating into 15 kt winds to Black Point. Quiet anchorage off of cozy little town.

Tues- Black Point is the 2nd largest town in Exuma, something like 200 residents but it has a school, groceries, laundry and 2 restuarants with wifi. As I type this Chris is doing laundry and getting a haircut. Town even has a spigot with free R/O water(which has been $1.00/gal at many spots).

Wed- Overcast with squalls pred for the afternoon so we motorsailed south to Little Farmers Cay. Great protected harbor with moorings at $10/ night. Town of only 50 people but has broadcast tv and wifi.(unfortunately we didn't even try either until Thurs night). Showers much of day.

Thurs- Still overcast but no rain. Hike around Island, neighbor Bill over for dinner, he supplied Fresh fish that Chris fried up.

Southern Eleuthera

South thru Eleuthera

Fri, April 30th- Early morning showers cleared out by noon and we had a great sail south to Current Settlement. Anchored off beautiful beach and wandered about this tiny village. We will pass thru Current cut in the morning and I was trying to figure the timing of slack current. This deep narrow channel has tidal currents that run like a raging river. Apparently there are only a few minutes where the water is slack at the tide change and this was to occur at dawn. Rather than navigate its winding channel in poor light we decided to run with the flow mid morning.

Sat- After an exciting ride thru the cut we sailed into choppy waves to the glass window where we found protection for the night behind Mutton fish point. Another sunny warm afternoon spent exploring the cliff lined shores. The land here is quite hilly and much of the shoreline reminds us of Lake Champlain.

Sun- Off early to beat south into choppy seas and building winds. Exhilarating sail to Hatchet Harbor which is entered thru a 66 ft wide cut in the cliffs. Another exciting few minutes as the waves were throwing us about until we entered the protected waters of the harbor. Picked up a free mooring and met up with Karen and George aboard Sunseeker for a long hike thru the village and to the ocean side to explore the rocky beach. Cocktails later aboard Sunseeker.

Mon- Biked north stopping at limestone caves which apparently can be followed for over a mile. Our excuse for not exploring more than the entrance was no flashlight (likely excuse). Biked on thru very hilly terrain to Gregory town where we bought 5 conk from locals. Long hot ride back.

Tues- Rented a car with friends aboard Sunseeker and explored much of the southern end of the island. Arriving back at dusk the local crab boat was returning from his day pulling pots. We bought a dozen crab claws which made an excellent dinner. Chris even felt they were better than lobster.

Wed- Headed south to Governors’ Harbor sailing under bright blue skies and warm south breezes. Water in bay was 78 and crystal clear. Wandered about town then enjoyed sunset cocktails with John and Mary aboard Marylee, the only other sailboat at anchor here.

Thurs-Sailed south with warm breeze to Rock Sound. Caught 3 ft Barracuda and 16 in grouper we had for dinner. Made conk salad and froze cuda after checking with locals on if they are ok to eat. Large ones can carry a poison but these caught here are supposedly good. Swam in 82 deg water.

Fri-To town for groceries and wifi before heading across to Exumas tomorrow. Warm ashore but great on water. Breeze favorable for traveling but big winds are coming back next week.