Back in Eleuthera

    In our last post we spent time hopping around some of the more remote islands of what is called the far Bahamas.  The protection offered in the anchorages is only from the prevailing easterly trade winds so we pay close attention to the weather reports which I get each morning at 6:30.  With our fair weather coming to an end in a couple of days we hitail it north.

Rock Sound, Eleuthera
     With a nice SE breeze we set sail under sunny skies just as a giant cruise ship enters the anchorage. With the wind at our backs we make good time but the seas have us rolling about until we turn north around the southern tip of Eleuthera. The hilite of the trip was bringing in a nice 40 inch Mahi followed by a couple of Barricudas. We finish out the trip motoring the 6 miles up Davis Channel into choppy seas into a rain squall.  Anchored by 3 pm after a 7 hour day in the protected waters off Rock Sound where we treated ourselves to a dinner of grilled Mahi and Steak.
     With the arrival of the expected stormy weather we spend the next 4 days catching up on chores such as laundry, baking and shopping for groceries. Joined our friends aboard Will-lo-wind for happy hour one evening and hiked to the ocean beach between showers. During the early morning hours of our 3rd night an unexpected wind shift accompanied by a wild thunderstorm had us up on anchor watch for a few hours as we bounced about.  In the middle of this storm a freighter (mailboat) come thru the anchorage to unload at the Govt pier and I'm sure a few of the boats were on edge as they were anchored close to the narrow channel. The following morning we moved to the now calm  western side of the harbor along with 7 other boats.
   

Governors Harbor 
     With the arrival of fair weather we set off north for a great 6 hour sail to anchor off of this pretty colonial village.  The local mens club hosts a fish fry every Friday with the profits benefiting various local projects.  We make a point to attend whenever we are here and we convinced 6 other boats to join the festivities. Dinner and drinks on the beach was followed by a few of the ladies joining the dancing in the street to a much to loud DJ.
    On Saturday a festival celebrating the Haitian heritage of many of the residents was setting up with loud music set to blast well into the wee hours so we moved to the far corner of the harbor. Glad we did as even from a distance the music was loud.

frying up a mess of snapper at Fish Fry

Alabaster Bay
     A short sail north has us watching storm clouds in the distance and we decided to play it safe and stop for lunch off this beautiful beach. Ended up staying the night and the next morning hiked to a nearby abandoned US Navy base where we spent the morning exploring the ruins and magnificent ocean beaches . I'm always amazed how quickly nature takes over and it seems a shame the buildings haven't been put to a new use.  Apparently the base was used during the Cuban missile crises to keep an eye on Soviet Subs using undersea sonar and was manned by mostly civilian contractors.  We did get to tour the reverse osmosis water plant now run by the local govt that utilizes existing water tanks and wells that draw from a huge concrete catchment basin.

Abandoned Navy Base-large clearing in background is concrete rainwater catchment area, a section not pictured was the base housing near the beach

Hatchet Bay
    A leisurely sail brought us next to the protected harbor of Hatchet Bay.  We were joined for cocktails and my conch fritters by new friends aboard the Ketch S/V Compassion who we have been traveling with the past few days. The main reason for this stop is to get a meal of Stone Crab Claws. The past few times we have stopped they havn't been available so we made sure to get our fill this time. The local fisherman boils the claws then ships them out  by air to the US the evening they come in which makes it hard to catch him.  When we saw the boat going out we knew we would stay a second night just for this delicacy. I purchased two 1 gallon bags stuffed full for $20/bag and we managed to stuff ourselves while freezing half.  Since these sell in Fl for $25-35/lb this is the only time we get this treat.

$20 plate of Stone Crab

Using channel lock pliers to crack the claws

Meeks Patch
    With the winds expected to build we move on thru Current Cut and anchor in the lee of this tiny group of islands. As expected the winds built by nightfall to over 20 kts and held there thru the following day.  Our anchorage was quite pleasant and we spent time walking the beach and exploring.

Spanish Wells
    Since it looks like we will be here for a while waiting for the winds and seas to settle down before we make our next open ocean passage north to the Abacoes we decide to move to town to enjoy what civilization has to offer. With the big winds a dinghy ride from the anchorage wouldn't be pleasant so we  move to a dock are able to snag a private slip from the same owner as we had on our last visit for engine repairs. We convinced our friends on Compassion to join us and  it looks like we will be here for a few days.

     

Finally Moving On

     Having spent nearly 3 weeks in the Georgetown area we finally decide to move on. Since the regatta ended we have been plagued with a low pressure system that has dumped rain and wind for a week. The weather has cleared and even though the winds aren't ideal we head out for Long Island.

Long Island
     With a moderate east wind we motor sail on a course NNE much to tight an angle for us under sail alone. After 28 miles of pounding into the chop we arrive at Hog cay on the north end of Long Island. We spent the afternoon and the next day exploring the creek with extensive sand flats that meander thru the area.

Miles of low tide sand flats to explore

Another day another beach

Conception Island
     Having not visited this uninhabited National Park since 2013 we have been itching to get back to it's pristine beaches and gin clear waters.  Mild weather is a must as the only anchorage offers protection from only east winds. With a few days of moderate tradewinds predicted we head out once again motor sailing into the wind and waves the 29 miles arriving at anchor for a late lunch. The hilite of the trip was bringing in a 50 inch bull Mahi. This made for many meals into the freezer while sharing some with friends Clifford and Adriann on Willow Wind who we have spent time with often the past few years.
    Great weather has us spending time on both the exposed oceanside beach and the protected beach surrounding the anchorage. A happy hour get together on the beach has us joining   couples from the 6 other boats we share this spot with.

Biggest Mahi yet

oceanside beach video- Conception

Cat Island- McQueens

     While the weather is favorable we set sail downwind for the southern tip of Cat Island where after a long 6 hour sail we anchor in Old Byte off the tiny settlement of McQueens. A hike around the area found mostly abandonded houses and not much in the way of civilization. Like many of the towns in the far Islands there isn't much to keep the young people there and they move to the big cities of Nassau and Freeport as soon as they are able.

Coconut water for skyjuce (gin, condensed milk, Coconut water)

      New Bight- We set off the few miles to anchor for lunch and for a hike to visit the Hermitage which is situated  atop Mt Alverna boasting the highest point in the Bahamas at a whopping 206 ft.  The Hermitage was built by Father Jerome as his retirement home after spending his life building numerous churches throughout the islands.

Mt Alverna

Hermitage

     Fernandez Bay-A short sail north brought us to this tiny cove where we anchor for a peaceful evening.
     
Little San Salvadore

     Continuing on our way north while the weather holds we sail another 6 hours to Halfmoon Bay where we once again meet up with friends on Willow Wind and they join us aboard for Happy Hour.  If this island sounds familiarit's because we have stopped here twice already on this trip when we had to backtrack for our engine repairs. The beach and water here are pristine but it's a cruise ship day stop so it can get crowded when a ship is in.  

Hangin out in Georgetown

    We usually try to be here in time for the Family Islands Regatta and this year we arrived a few days early in order to make the ocean passage before the winds build once again.
     As many as 300 cruising boats call Georgetown home for the winter since heading further south calls for long  overnite ocean passages thru some very remote islands. This has earned it the nickname "Chicken Harbor".  This small town welcomes the influx of boaters and offers all the amenities a cruiser requires. The local grocery is well stocked boasting easy access with a large dingy dock and also free R/O water.  The harbor is actually what is called a roadstead and is quite large at 1 mile wide and 2 miles long. Depending on the wind direction boaters can find protection in it's many anchorages but as winds shift the "Georgetown Shuffle" begins as boats reanchor in a more sheltered spot. Stocking Island is mostly uninhabited with numerous beaches and hiking trails and this is where most of the action is.  Yoga, water aerobics, poker, volleyball, trivia, open mike and lectures are but a few of the activities organized by the cruising community. The problem with this Island anchorage is the dinghy ride to town is at least a mile and when the wind is up it makes for a wet ride.

another secluded beach- Elizabeth Is

   
Family Islands Regatta
     This year marks the 66th year this event has been held. The regatta lasts 5 days and is a festival that attracts thousands of Bahamians to participate in the shoreside activities.  Over 70 traditional sloops from all over the islands participate in 5 days of racing in classes ranging from the E class 12 ft boats to the  A class 28 footers. The  festivities go on well into the night with live concerts and we have learned to anchor well away from town.

starting line- anchors set, sails down

our vantage point off the stern of friends boat- to close for comfort

hiking out class A

Crab Cay Anchorage
     One of our favorite spots that gives us the serenity of a quiet anchorage but is still less than a mile to town is the abandoned harbor at Crab Cay. This development was started about 20 years ago but has been basically left to the elements after construction of a beautiful stone bridge, dredging a 40 acre harbor with a canal to nowhere, miles of roads with buried utilities and a stunning welcome center.
     We spend much of our time hiking the miles of roads and trails, enjoying beautiful beaches and exploring ruins dating back to the 1700's.

exploring ruins

welcome center

more abandoned welcome center

bridge to nowhere

unfinished canal