Wednesday, May 20, 2015

North thru Eleuthra into Abacoe

Sat May 30th-Royal Island Eleuthra

Favorable east winds find us off early to make our way north thru what is refferred to as the minefield. This stretch of shallow water is dotted with coral heads so needs to be transited with good sun. These corals look like they are very close to the surface but in reality the water is so clear that it probably is an illusion. Just the same we dodge around any we encounter. A great day of sailing under full sail with lots of exciting fishing. We didn't expect to catch much but after the 9th huge barracuda (kept the only one that was under 30") finally gave up fishing. Had hoped for a snapper as we have found these in this area on other trips. Anchored late afternoon in the harbor at Royal Island for a quiet night.
   Sun- Spent a relaxing day wandering the island and enjoying the beach. For happy hour we were invited aboard Echo Echo along with friends aboard Pearl and enjoyed the company of Niel and Jean sailing out of Australia.

Monday June 1st- off to Abacoe

    With lite winds and a gently rolling sea we set off early to cross the open waters of th NE Providence Channel along with 6 other boats. Motor sailed all day to arrive at Lynard Cay, Abacoe in  time for cocktails. Fished all day with the only action being a huge Mahi that had the reel screaming as it jumped and danced along the water before coming free. Was exciting to watch this great show by such a colorful fish.

Tues-Wed Marsh Harbor

   With unsettled weather expected for the next few days we took advantage of sunny skies and lite wind to motor sail north to the protection of Marsh Harbor. Errands of banking,shopping for fresh veggies,a stop for a case of our favorite rum to bring home (Fire in da hole), and a visit to the seafood wholesaler for conch and lobster meat(no shell) for the freezer kept us occupied for a couple of rainy days. At least we were able to fill our water tanks as water is an expensive commodity and the rain has been rare lately.

Thurs- Fri, June 4th and 5th- Treasure Cay
   With more cloudy rainy weather on the horizon we sail between showers to the anchorage at Treasure Cay.  We find ourselves anchored among 6 British and South African boats that have gathered there prior to heading to the southern latitudes as a group. Listening to stories of sailing in Cuba by Dave and Emma aboard Five Flip Flops.has Chris chomping at the bit to head there soon.

Sat Manjack Cay
   The sun has returned and we head north thru the tricky Don't Rock passage at high tide to anchor in the cove at Manjack. A ride ashore to say hello to the islands  owners Bill and Leslie whom we met on our first trip then a hike to the ocean beach for a swim.

Sun-Allens-Pensacola Cay
   Lite east winds as we sail northand anchor in the protected cove at Allans. Fished along the way but as usual only 2 big barracuda which I released.

Mon-Great Sale Cay
    We had been planning on spending time visiting some of the islands of the northern Abacoes that we normally miss but once again plans change.  Settled weather and the need to get back to Fl to see my Dr re neck problems has us heading home. Motor sail to the anchorage at Great Sail Cay catching a few more barracuda along the way.  

Tues- A sunny morning with light winds led to a day of dodging squalls as we motor west. Managed to stay dry as we anchored mid day at Mangrove Cay. An afternoon dingy ride rewarded us with many huge turtles, a 6 ft shark and lots of fish.

Wed- Woke to a thunderstorm so we waited until 10 AM for it to pass. As we head west more Squalls kept popping up and just as I thought I had shirted around them using the radar a new one would pop up. We probably went 6 miles out of our way by doing this but we finally broke out of the clouds as we approached West End and our anchorage. Stayed mostly dry inside our full enclosed cockpit but the big worry was other boat traffic. We are on a well traveled route and visibility at times was near zero.

Friday, May 15, 2015

Returning north thru Exuma

Wed May 13th
 Back to Georgetown

    Change of plans again as the strong winds continue.  We hoped to move north to revisit the eastern islands of Conception, Cat, and Little San Salvadore but with no break in the east winds crossing the open ocean on this route isn’t our idea of fun.  With the wind at our backs we run under reduced sail back to Georgetown. The fishing was exciting but after the 3rd huge barracuda I gave up since it is hard to slow the boat to land these monsters that we release anyway. A mandatory quick stop in town since this is the only place we have found diet ginger beer which has become a staple for our latest favorite cocktail “dark and stormy” which is dark rum, ginger beer and lime.  Anchored for a peaceful night off of monument beach on Stocking Island.

Thurs May 14
Lee Stocking Island

Rudder Cay Cave
Taking advantage of a second day of mild winds we head north in the company of 6 other boats to get to the protected waters of the Exuma Bank. Counting the boats left in the harbor leaves only 24 still here compared to 238 anchored when we arrived for regatta.
With winds and seas building we entered the banks at the first viable cut (tiny Rat Cay cut)and made our way to anchor in the lee of Perrys Peak at Lee Stocking Island.  Spent the afternoon lounging on a perfect beach tucked in beneath the hills.
peaceful anchorage, Lee Stocking




Perry Research Center

We move the short distance to anchor at the abandoned research center where we spent the next 2 days hiking the island. The highlight of this stay was a  dingy trip around Normans Pond Cay where we waded up the stream to explore the huge salt pond. We were rewarded with a few conch which I turned into a batch of fritters that we shared with our friends on Pearl.
 
May 18th-Little Farmers Cay

Back out into Exuma Sound for the short hop to Rudder Cut. Apparently we miscalculated the tide change and we entered the cut with winds opposing the current for an exciting ride. We try to time entry into these cuts for rising tide which makes for a generally smooth ride.  Worked our way north stopping at Rudder Cay to check out the caves and a sunken piano with a mermaid at the keyboard. The owners have placed this oddity in 12 feet of the crystal clear waters apparently as a spot for snorkeling.  Moved on to anchor behind Little Farmers Cay and a walk thru town.

May 19th and 20th-Black Point

Sunny and warm with a gentle breeze has us sailing north with a stop for lunch and a walk on the beach at White Point. Mid afternoon we sailed on to anchor at Black Point.  Spent much of Wednesday in town for laundry, internet and happy hour at Scorpios.

Thurs, May 21st- Big Majors
Had another great sail north to Staniel Cay anchoring off of pig beach in the company of 25 other boats. At least a dozen are mega yachts over 100 ft.  We don’t normally spend much time here preferring quieter anchorages. The mailboat is in so we are off to town for fresh veggies. Had hoped to snorkle in the grotto (made famous in James Bonds Thunderball) but the best time for this is low slack tide and this occurred in the evening.

Fri thru Sun, May 22 - 24th- Pipe Cay

With big winds predicted for much of the next week we moved north to the abandoned Radar base on Pipe Cay. The concrete seawall is still in great shape and is a great spot to tie up. Turns out we are the only boat here and we spent the days lazing about, exploring the acres of  tidal flats and beaches. Were able to find conch for a few meals and even caught a small lemon shark that was feeding along the shore. Not sure how good this shark is but the filletts are in the freezer for a possible future meal.
Our private dock at Pipe Cay
my monster lemon shark


Mon-May 25th- Wardrick Wells

Sunny and Breezy as we flew north under just the Jib to pick up a mooring at Exuma Park HQ. Hiked up Bobo hill to pick up our carved signboard to add this years date. All the boats that visit Wardrick Wells are expected to leave a driftwood boatname on top of this peak. We have updated our sign each year since our first visit in 2010.  Exchanged a pile of books at the office and even rented a movie.

Tues and Wed-May26-27- Hawksbill Cay
Big winds again find us racing north under just the jib. Spent the days lazing on the beach and exploring the extensive tidal flats in the center of the island.

Thurs-May 28th- Highbourne Cay
Winds are still brisk but calmed a bit and we are off under reefed sails. Anchored off Highbourne among a few monster yachts.

Fri-Bush Cay
With setteled weather expected for a few days we moved north to stage for the passage north to Eleuthra. Bush Cay looks like a protected spot but we found ourselves rolling as the ocean swell found its way around the island for most of the night. 

Long Island


Hog Cay
Thursday May 7th

    With the winds finally calming down and less threat of squalls we decided to move on to Long Island.  Winds once again didn’t cooperate so we motor sailed across the Exuma Sound to anchor on the north end of the island at Hog Cay. As we were about to make landfall the sky darkened and a mean looking thunderstorm set in over the area. We were able to wait offshore until the skies cleared and avoided the worst weather. This anchorage is protected but a swell still rolls in from the open ocean which is at least 5 miles to the north of us.

Thompson Bay, Salt Pond
Friday May 8th thru Tuesday May 12th

    After spending the morning exploring the shallow creeks of Joes Sound and a bit of snorkeling we move south along the coast to anchor off the village of Salt Pond where we meet up with our friends Bruce and Gay aboard Pearl. We spend our days hiking to the ocean side exploring the many beautiful beaches while the seas pound the offshore reefs. Even though the winds howl our anchorage is protected behind high hills. Still have at least one squall blow thru each afternoon but we have planned our excursions to be aboard by early afternoon.
    A highlight of the week was renting a car with Bruce and Gay and spending the day traveling to areas not accessible by boat. The island is 80 miles long but we were able to see many great spots. We took a tour of the extensive caves at Hamilton, Stopped for a picture at the tiny settlement of Buckleys,  visited Deans Blue Hole, drove thru the extensive abandoned salt ponds of Diamond Crystals and finally hiked to the Colombus Monument to take in the views atop the cliffs at the north point. Needless to say we managed stops to cool off at a few of the beautiful beaches since it was a very warm day.
Lunch stop at abandonded house



Cave tour