Friday, May 15, 2015

Returning north thru Exuma

Wed May 13th
 Back to Georgetown

    Change of plans again as the strong winds continue.  We hoped to move north to revisit the eastern islands of Conception, Cat, and Little San Salvadore but with no break in the east winds crossing the open ocean on this route isn’t our idea of fun.  With the wind at our backs we run under reduced sail back to Georgetown. The fishing was exciting but after the 3rd huge barracuda I gave up since it is hard to slow the boat to land these monsters that we release anyway. A mandatory quick stop in town since this is the only place we have found diet ginger beer which has become a staple for our latest favorite cocktail “dark and stormy” which is dark rum, ginger beer and lime.  Anchored for a peaceful night off of monument beach on Stocking Island.

Thurs May 14
Lee Stocking Island

Rudder Cay Cave
Taking advantage of a second day of mild winds we head north in the company of 6 other boats to get to the protected waters of the Exuma Bank. Counting the boats left in the harbor leaves only 24 still here compared to 238 anchored when we arrived for regatta.
With winds and seas building we entered the banks at the first viable cut (tiny Rat Cay cut)and made our way to anchor in the lee of Perrys Peak at Lee Stocking Island.  Spent the afternoon lounging on a perfect beach tucked in beneath the hills.
peaceful anchorage, Lee Stocking




Perry Research Center

We move the short distance to anchor at the abandoned research center where we spent the next 2 days hiking the island. The highlight of this stay was a  dingy trip around Normans Pond Cay where we waded up the stream to explore the huge salt pond. We were rewarded with a few conch which I turned into a batch of fritters that we shared with our friends on Pearl.
 
May 18th-Little Farmers Cay

Back out into Exuma Sound for the short hop to Rudder Cut. Apparently we miscalculated the tide change and we entered the cut with winds opposing the current for an exciting ride. We try to time entry into these cuts for rising tide which makes for a generally smooth ride.  Worked our way north stopping at Rudder Cay to check out the caves and a sunken piano with a mermaid at the keyboard. The owners have placed this oddity in 12 feet of the crystal clear waters apparently as a spot for snorkeling.  Moved on to anchor behind Little Farmers Cay and a walk thru town.

May 19th and 20th-Black Point

Sunny and warm with a gentle breeze has us sailing north with a stop for lunch and a walk on the beach at White Point. Mid afternoon we sailed on to anchor at Black Point.  Spent much of Wednesday in town for laundry, internet and happy hour at Scorpios.

Thurs, May 21st- Big Majors
Had another great sail north to Staniel Cay anchoring off of pig beach in the company of 25 other boats. At least a dozen are mega yachts over 100 ft.  We don’t normally spend much time here preferring quieter anchorages. The mailboat is in so we are off to town for fresh veggies. Had hoped to snorkle in the grotto (made famous in James Bonds Thunderball) but the best time for this is low slack tide and this occurred in the evening.

Fri thru Sun, May 22 - 24th- Pipe Cay

With big winds predicted for much of the next week we moved north to the abandoned Radar base on Pipe Cay. The concrete seawall is still in great shape and is a great spot to tie up. Turns out we are the only boat here and we spent the days lazing about, exploring the acres of  tidal flats and beaches. Were able to find conch for a few meals and even caught a small lemon shark that was feeding along the shore. Not sure how good this shark is but the filletts are in the freezer for a possible future meal.
Our private dock at Pipe Cay
my monster lemon shark


Mon-May 25th- Wardrick Wells

Sunny and Breezy as we flew north under just the Jib to pick up a mooring at Exuma Park HQ. Hiked up Bobo hill to pick up our carved signboard to add this years date. All the boats that visit Wardrick Wells are expected to leave a driftwood boatname on top of this peak. We have updated our sign each year since our first visit in 2010.  Exchanged a pile of books at the office and even rented a movie.

Tues and Wed-May26-27- Hawksbill Cay
Big winds again find us racing north under just the jib. Spent the days lazing on the beach and exploring the extensive tidal flats in the center of the island.

Thurs-May 28th- Highbourne Cay
Winds are still brisk but calmed a bit and we are off under reefed sails. Anchored off Highbourne among a few monster yachts.

Fri-Bush Cay
With setteled weather expected for a few days we moved north to stage for the passage north to Eleuthra. Bush Cay looks like a protected spot but we found ourselves rolling as the ocean swell found its way around the island for most of the night. 

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