Sat May 30th-Royal Island Eleuthra
Favorable east winds find us off early to make our way north thru what is refferred to as the minefield. This stretch of shallow water is dotted with coral heads so needs to be transited with good sun. These corals look like they are very close to the surface but in reality the water is so clear that it probably is an illusion. Just the same we dodge around any we encounter. A great day of sailing under full sail with lots of exciting fishing. We didn't expect to catch much but after the 9th huge barracuda (kept the only one that was under 30") finally gave up fishing. Had hoped for a snapper as we have found these in this area on other trips. Anchored late afternoon in the harbor at Royal Island for a quiet night.
Sun- Spent a relaxing day wandering the island and enjoying the beach. For happy hour we were invited aboard Echo Echo along with friends aboard Pearl and enjoyed the company of Niel and Jean sailing out of Australia.
Monday June 1st- off to Abacoe
With lite winds and a gently rolling sea we set off early to cross the open waters of th NE Providence Channel along with 6 other boats. Motor sailed all day to arrive at Lynard Cay, Abacoe in time for cocktails. Fished all day with the only action being a huge Mahi that had the reel screaming as it jumped and danced along the water before coming free. Was exciting to watch this great show by such a colorful fish.
Tues-Wed Marsh Harbor
With unsettled weather expected for the next few days we took advantage of sunny skies and lite wind to motor sail north to the protection of Marsh Harbor. Errands of banking,shopping for fresh veggies,a stop for a case of our favorite rum to bring home (Fire in da hole), and a visit to the seafood wholesaler for conch and lobster meat(no shell) for the freezer kept us occupied for a couple of rainy days. At least we were able to fill our water tanks as water is an expensive commodity and the rain has been rare lately.
Thurs- Fri, June 4th and 5th- Treasure Cay
With more cloudy rainy weather on the horizon we sail between showers to the anchorage at Treasure Cay. We find ourselves anchored among 6 British and South African boats that have gathered there prior to heading to the southern latitudes as a group. Listening to stories of sailing in Cuba by Dave and Emma aboard Five Flip Flops.has Chris chomping at the bit to head there soon.
Sat Manjack Cay
The sun has returned and we head north thru the tricky Don't Rock passage at high tide to anchor in the cove at Manjack. A ride ashore to say hello to the islands owners Bill and Leslie whom we met on our first trip then a hike to the ocean beach for a swim.
Sun-Allens-Pensacola Cay
Lite east winds as we sail northand anchor in the protected cove at Allans. Fished along the way but as usual only 2 big barracuda which I released.
Mon-Great Sale Cay
We had been planning on spending time visiting some of the islands of the northern Abacoes that we normally miss but once again plans change. Settled weather and the need to get back to Fl to see my Dr re neck problems has us heading home. Motor sail to the anchorage at Great Sail Cay catching a few more barracuda along the way.
Tues- A sunny morning with light winds led to a day of dodging squalls as we motor west. Managed to stay dry as we anchored mid day at Mangrove Cay. An afternoon dingy ride rewarded us with many huge turtles, a 6 ft shark and lots of fish.
Wed- Woke to a thunderstorm so we waited until 10 AM for it to pass. As we head west more Squalls kept popping up and just as I thought I had shirted around them using the radar a new one would pop up. We probably went 6 miles out of our way by doing this but we finally broke out of the clouds as we approached West End and our anchorage. Stayed mostly dry inside our full enclosed cockpit but the big worry was other boat traffic. We are on a well traveled route and visibility at times was near zero.
Wednesday, May 20, 2015
Friday, May 15, 2015
Returning north thru Exuma
Wed May 13th
Back to Georgetown
Change of plans again as the strong winds continue. We hoped to move north to revisit the eastern islands of Conception, Cat, and Little San Salvadore but with no break in the east winds crossing the open ocean on this route isn’t our idea of fun. With the wind at our backs we run under reduced sail back to Georgetown. The fishing was exciting but after the 3rd huge barracuda I gave up since it is hard to slow the boat to land these monsters that we release anyway. A mandatory quick stop in town since this is the only place we have found diet ginger beer which has become a staple for our latest favorite cocktail “dark and stormy” which is dark rum, ginger beer and lime. Anchored for a peaceful night off of monument beach on Stocking Island.
Thurs May 14
Lee Stocking Island
Taking advantage of a second day of mild winds we head north in the company of 6 other boats to get to the protected waters of the Exuma Bank. Counting the boats left in the harbor leaves only 24 still here compared to 238 anchored when we arrived for regatta.
With winds and seas building we entered the banks at the first viable cut (tiny Rat Cay cut)and made our way to anchor in the lee of Perrys Peak at Lee Stocking Island. Spent the afternoon lounging on a perfect beach tucked in beneath the hills.
Perry Research Center
We move the short distance to anchor at the abandoned research center where we spent the next 2 days hiking the island. The highlight of this stay was a dingy trip around Normans Pond Cay where we waded up the stream to explore the huge salt pond. We were rewarded with a few conch which I turned into a batch of fritters that we shared with our friends on Pearl.
May 18th-Little Farmers Cay
Back out into Exuma Sound for the short hop to Rudder Cut. Apparently we miscalculated the tide change and we entered the cut with winds opposing the current for an exciting ride. We try to time entry into these cuts for rising tide which makes for a generally smooth ride. Worked our way north stopping at Rudder Cay to check out the caves and a sunken piano with a mermaid at the keyboard. The owners have placed this oddity in 12 feet of the crystal clear waters apparently as a spot for snorkeling. Moved on to anchor behind Little Farmers Cay and a walk thru town.
May 19th and 20th-Black Point
Sunny and warm with a gentle breeze has us sailing north with a stop for lunch and a walk on the beach at White Point. Mid afternoon we sailed on to anchor at Black Point. Spent much of Wednesday in town for laundry, internet and happy hour at Scorpios.
Thurs, May 21st- Big Majors
Had another great sail north to Staniel Cay anchoring off of pig beach in the company of 25 other boats. At least a dozen are mega yachts over 100 ft. We don’t normally spend much time here preferring quieter anchorages. The mailboat is in so we are off to town for fresh veggies. Had hoped to snorkle in the grotto (made famous in James Bonds Thunderball) but the best time for this is low slack tide and this occurred in the evening.
Fri thru Sun, May 22 - 24th- Pipe Cay
With big winds predicted for much of the next week we moved north to the abandoned Radar base on Pipe Cay. The concrete seawall is still in great shape and is a great spot to tie up. Turns out we are the only boat here and we spent the days lazing about, exploring the acres of tidal flats and beaches. Were able to find conch for a few meals and even caught a small lemon shark that was feeding along the shore. Not sure how good this shark is but the filletts are in the freezer for a possible future meal.
Mon-May 25th- Wardrick Wells
Sunny and Breezy as we flew north under just the Jib to pick up a mooring at Exuma Park HQ. Hiked up Bobo hill to pick up our carved signboard to add this years date. All the boats that visit Wardrick Wells are expected to leave a driftwood boatname on top of this peak. We have updated our sign each year since our first visit in 2010. Exchanged a pile of books at the office and even rented a movie.
Tues and Wed-May26-27- Hawksbill Cay
Big winds again find us racing north under just the jib. Spent the days lazing on the beach and exploring the extensive tidal flats in the center of the island.
Thurs-May 28th- Highbourne Cay
Winds are still brisk but calmed a bit and we are off under reefed sails. Anchored off Highbourne among a few monster yachts.
Fri-Bush Cay
With setteled weather expected for a few days we moved north to stage for the passage north to Eleuthra. Bush Cay looks like a protected spot but we found ourselves rolling as the ocean swell found its way around the island for most of the night.
Back to Georgetown
Change of plans again as the strong winds continue. We hoped to move north to revisit the eastern islands of Conception, Cat, and Little San Salvadore but with no break in the east winds crossing the open ocean on this route isn’t our idea of fun. With the wind at our backs we run under reduced sail back to Georgetown. The fishing was exciting but after the 3rd huge barracuda I gave up since it is hard to slow the boat to land these monsters that we release anyway. A mandatory quick stop in town since this is the only place we have found diet ginger beer which has become a staple for our latest favorite cocktail “dark and stormy” which is dark rum, ginger beer and lime. Anchored for a peaceful night off of monument beach on Stocking Island.
Thurs May 14
Lee Stocking Island
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| Rudder Cay Cave |
With winds and seas building we entered the banks at the first viable cut (tiny Rat Cay cut)and made our way to anchor in the lee of Perrys Peak at Lee Stocking Island. Spent the afternoon lounging on a perfect beach tucked in beneath the hills.
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| peaceful anchorage, Lee Stocking |
Perry Research Center
We move the short distance to anchor at the abandoned research center where we spent the next 2 days hiking the island. The highlight of this stay was a dingy trip around Normans Pond Cay where we waded up the stream to explore the huge salt pond. We were rewarded with a few conch which I turned into a batch of fritters that we shared with our friends on Pearl.
May 18th-Little Farmers Cay
Back out into Exuma Sound for the short hop to Rudder Cut. Apparently we miscalculated the tide change and we entered the cut with winds opposing the current for an exciting ride. We try to time entry into these cuts for rising tide which makes for a generally smooth ride. Worked our way north stopping at Rudder Cay to check out the caves and a sunken piano with a mermaid at the keyboard. The owners have placed this oddity in 12 feet of the crystal clear waters apparently as a spot for snorkeling. Moved on to anchor behind Little Farmers Cay and a walk thru town.
May 19th and 20th-Black Point
Sunny and warm with a gentle breeze has us sailing north with a stop for lunch and a walk on the beach at White Point. Mid afternoon we sailed on to anchor at Black Point. Spent much of Wednesday in town for laundry, internet and happy hour at Scorpios.
Thurs, May 21st- Big Majors
Had another great sail north to Staniel Cay anchoring off of pig beach in the company of 25 other boats. At least a dozen are mega yachts over 100 ft. We don’t normally spend much time here preferring quieter anchorages. The mailboat is in so we are off to town for fresh veggies. Had hoped to snorkle in the grotto (made famous in James Bonds Thunderball) but the best time for this is low slack tide and this occurred in the evening.
Fri thru Sun, May 22 - 24th- Pipe Cay
With big winds predicted for much of the next week we moved north to the abandoned Radar base on Pipe Cay. The concrete seawall is still in great shape and is a great spot to tie up. Turns out we are the only boat here and we spent the days lazing about, exploring the acres of tidal flats and beaches. Were able to find conch for a few meals and even caught a small lemon shark that was feeding along the shore. Not sure how good this shark is but the filletts are in the freezer for a possible future meal.
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| Our private dock at Pipe Cay |
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| my monster lemon shark |
Mon-May 25th- Wardrick Wells
Sunny and Breezy as we flew north under just the Jib to pick up a mooring at Exuma Park HQ. Hiked up Bobo hill to pick up our carved signboard to add this years date. All the boats that visit Wardrick Wells are expected to leave a driftwood boatname on top of this peak. We have updated our sign each year since our first visit in 2010. Exchanged a pile of books at the office and even rented a movie.
Tues and Wed-May26-27- Hawksbill Cay
Big winds again find us racing north under just the jib. Spent the days lazing on the beach and exploring the extensive tidal flats in the center of the island.
Thurs-May 28th- Highbourne Cay
Winds are still brisk but calmed a bit and we are off under reefed sails. Anchored off Highbourne among a few monster yachts.
Fri-Bush Cay
With setteled weather expected for a few days we moved north to stage for the passage north to Eleuthra. Bush Cay looks like a protected spot but we found ourselves rolling as the ocean swell found its way around the island for most of the night.
Long Island
Hog Cay
Thursday May 7th
With the winds finally calming down and less threat of squalls we decided to move on to Long Island. Winds once again didn’t cooperate so we motor sailed across the Exuma Sound to anchor on the north end of the island at Hog Cay. As we were about to make landfall the sky darkened and a mean looking thunderstorm set in over the area. We were able to wait offshore until the skies cleared and avoided the worst weather. This anchorage is protected but a swell still rolls in from the open ocean which is at least 5 miles to the north of us.
Thompson Bay, Salt Pond
Friday May 8th thru Tuesday May 12th
After spending the morning exploring the shallow creeks of Joes Sound and a bit of snorkeling we move south along the coast to anchor off the village of Salt Pond where we meet up with our friends Bruce and Gay aboard Pearl. We spend our days hiking to the ocean side exploring the many beautiful beaches while the seas pound the offshore reefs. Even though the winds howl our anchorage is protected behind high hills. Still have at least one squall blow thru each afternoon but we have planned our excursions to be aboard by early afternoon.
A highlight of the week was renting a car with Bruce and Gay and spending the day traveling to areas not accessible by boat. The island is 80 miles long but we were able to see many great spots. We took a tour of the extensive caves at Hamilton, Stopped for a picture at the tiny settlement of Buckleys, visited Deans Blue Hole, drove thru the extensive abandoned salt ponds of Diamond Crystals and finally hiked to the Colombus Monument to take in the views atop the cliffs at the north point. Needless to say we managed stops to cool off at a few of the beautiful beaches since it was a very warm day.
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| Lunch stop at abandonded house |
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| Cave tour |
Wednesday, April 29, 2015
Moving thru the Exuma Chain
April 17th-Exuma Bound- Highbourn Cay
We set out under sunny skies and a gentle SSE wind motoring thru the Davis channel to the Exuma Sound. Had planned on making landfall in the Exumas at Wardrick Wells but after motor sailing for an hour finally decided this was a course to close to the wind. Turned about 40 degrees to the north and were able to sail a nice beam reach that would take us to Highbourn Cut. Chris reminded me that I vowed to never use this cut again after the past 2 times being tossed around as if we were in a washing machine in the entrance. Today I assured her that the wind direction and tide would make for a smooth passage. Thankfully after a great sail we enter the cut with smooth seas even with the tide running out at 3 kts. Along the way we caught 2 small Barracuda(keepers) but after fighting a nice Mahi for what seemed like ages it broke free about 10 feet from the boat. Not sure but it looks like the knot in the monofilament let loose as the end was all curly.
Spent a quiet night at anchor.
Sat- Shroud Cay- I always forget how many Megayachts stop at Highbourn, This is the first stop from Nassau and a favorite for these big boats. They all sport multiple Jetskies and go fast runabouts spoiling what should be a peaceful anchorage. We make our way south into Exuma Park motoring into steep chop anchoring at Pigeon Cay where we were entertained by the antics of the graceful tropicbirds. Dingyed up one of the many creeks that cross Shroud cay enjoying a quiet afternoon on the beach.
Sun and Monday- Hawksbill Cay- Made our way south in the park to anchor at Hawksbill where we enjoyed a couple of days hiking the trails and frolicking the beaches on both the ocean and sound sides of the island. Scrubbed some of the fur and barnacles from the boat bottom. I normally would have attacked this project sooner but have been reluctant to press my luck with my neck problems.
Tues- Black Point- Motor sail south with lite winds and easy chop. Caught and released 2 big (40+inches) barracuda. We had planned on making more stops in this part of Exuma but were making such good progress we decided to press south to anchor at Rock Sound and possibly make Georgetown for Regatta later this week. Boaters happy hour at Serpicos bar where we me up with fellow cruisers Bob and Nina on Moondance. They are on the same schedule as us so it is nice to finally make friends heading in the same direction.
Wed- Lee Stocking Island- The day started out sunny with lite winds so we decided to press south. Motor for about an hour when the clouds rolled in and we were caught in the middle of a deluge with lots of lightening. Not much wind but visibility was very low. Kept dry in our enclosed cockpit as we tried to exit the storm. Finally reached Little Farmers Cay where we anchored just below the cell tower hoping this would give us some protection from the lightening. After what seemed like ages weather cleared and we headed out Cave Cay cut into the ocean making our way to the anchorage at the abandoned marine research center on Lee Stocking.
Thurs thru Monday- Georgetown- After exploring the research center and finding that nothing has changed since our visit 2 years ago other than more vandalized buildings we headed south to exit into the Sound at Rat Cay Cut. Fished all day with no luck. Entered the huge anchorage at Georgetown to find what was approx 240 visiting boats. Many still here after spending the winter but also a large number here for the Family Islands Regatta. This is a 5 day event that features racing in 3 classes of traditional sailboats but is mostly a huge party that goes on all night. Bahamians flock to the island from all over setting up temporary food and drink shacks and they sure know how to party.
We needed to be near town for errands like laundry, shopping and to try to get laptop repaired but that also meant suffering thru blasting music until 3 AM each night. We did enjoy being anchored on the edge of the racecourse and we took in the daytime festivities ashore. Had Bob and Nina from Moondance for cocktails and Conch fritters Sat evening.
Found a computer guy in town who decided our AC charger had problems but no replacement available. Learned that we can still use the computer if we remove the battery and use the DC adapter we carry. Won’t be able to take it ashore for wifi but at least it still works with our cellphone stick.
Met up with friends Scott and Donna from Saltine and they convinced us to move with them to another better protected anchorage a couple miles away to weather out the upcoming bad weather.
Tues- After a trip to town for Gas, diesel, veggies and to exchange books at the library we headed off to a group of cays called Red Shanks. We had studied this area on the charts and it looked very narrow and shallow but turned out to be a fantastic spot. Anchored with 5 sailboats who all got together on the pristine beach for sunset cocktails. A fierce but shortlived thunderstorm during the night had us scrambling to close up the boat.
Wed thru Fri- Spending our days lazing about enjoying all the area has to offer between thunderstorms. Weather is very unsettled after having been mostly tranquil the past 7 weeks. Good snorkeling and beaches all around. Plan on being here for a few more days until weather improves. Torrential rains and strong winds have accompanied the thunderstorms and the worst always seem to come after dark. Moved the boat a short distance Friday to give us a little better protection as the winds shift. Daily cocktail party on the beach where we get to meet our neighbors.
Sat May 2nd thru Wed May 6th- Spending our days exploring this fascinating area. Hiking and snorkeling on Crab Cay which is the site of yet another failed development. Still wind and scattered thunderstorms but we manage to get out most days. Monday Chris spent baking, it’s a good thing it doesn’t rain often or our waistlines would expand even more. On Wed we decided to move back to Kidd Cove for a few provisions in Georgetown prior to moving on but after a bit of shopping found the anchorage was a bit to rough for our liking and we were back to the peace and calm at Red Shanks and another happy hour on the beach.
Our plans this year were to continue south to explore the island chain called the Jumentos. This area requires settled weather as it offers very few protected anchorages and no services for the boater. With the weather predicted to be unsettled for the foreseeable future we modify our plans and decide to cross to Long island.
We set out under sunny skies and a gentle SSE wind motoring thru the Davis channel to the Exuma Sound. Had planned on making landfall in the Exumas at Wardrick Wells but after motor sailing for an hour finally decided this was a course to close to the wind. Turned about 40 degrees to the north and were able to sail a nice beam reach that would take us to Highbourn Cut. Chris reminded me that I vowed to never use this cut again after the past 2 times being tossed around as if we were in a washing machine in the entrance. Today I assured her that the wind direction and tide would make for a smooth passage. Thankfully after a great sail we enter the cut with smooth seas even with the tide running out at 3 kts. Along the way we caught 2 small Barracuda(keepers) but after fighting a nice Mahi for what seemed like ages it broke free about 10 feet from the boat. Not sure but it looks like the knot in the monofilament let loose as the end was all curly.
Spent a quiet night at anchor.
Sat- Shroud Cay- I always forget how many Megayachts stop at Highbourn, This is the first stop from Nassau and a favorite for these big boats. They all sport multiple Jetskies and go fast runabouts spoiling what should be a peaceful anchorage. We make our way south into Exuma Park motoring into steep chop anchoring at Pigeon Cay where we were entertained by the antics of the graceful tropicbirds. Dingyed up one of the many creeks that cross Shroud cay enjoying a quiet afternoon on the beach.
Sun and Monday- Hawksbill Cay- Made our way south in the park to anchor at Hawksbill where we enjoyed a couple of days hiking the trails and frolicking the beaches on both the ocean and sound sides of the island. Scrubbed some of the fur and barnacles from the boat bottom. I normally would have attacked this project sooner but have been reluctant to press my luck with my neck problems.
Tues- Black Point- Motor sail south with lite winds and easy chop. Caught and released 2 big (40+inches) barracuda. We had planned on making more stops in this part of Exuma but were making such good progress we decided to press south to anchor at Rock Sound and possibly make Georgetown for Regatta later this week. Boaters happy hour at Serpicos bar where we me up with fellow cruisers Bob and Nina on Moondance. They are on the same schedule as us so it is nice to finally make friends heading in the same direction.
Wed- Lee Stocking Island- The day started out sunny with lite winds so we decided to press south. Motor for about an hour when the clouds rolled in and we were caught in the middle of a deluge with lots of lightening. Not much wind but visibility was very low. Kept dry in our enclosed cockpit as we tried to exit the storm. Finally reached Little Farmers Cay where we anchored just below the cell tower hoping this would give us some protection from the lightening. After what seemed like ages weather cleared and we headed out Cave Cay cut into the ocean making our way to the anchorage at the abandoned marine research center on Lee Stocking.
Thurs thru Monday- Georgetown- After exploring the research center and finding that nothing has changed since our visit 2 years ago other than more vandalized buildings we headed south to exit into the Sound at Rat Cay Cut. Fished all day with no luck. Entered the huge anchorage at Georgetown to find what was approx 240 visiting boats. Many still here after spending the winter but also a large number here for the Family Islands Regatta. This is a 5 day event that features racing in 3 classes of traditional sailboats but is mostly a huge party that goes on all night. Bahamians flock to the island from all over setting up temporary food and drink shacks and they sure know how to party.
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| racing thru the anchorage |
We needed to be near town for errands like laundry, shopping and to try to get laptop repaired but that also meant suffering thru blasting music until 3 AM each night. We did enjoy being anchored on the edge of the racecourse and we took in the daytime festivities ashore. Had Bob and Nina from Moondance for cocktails and Conch fritters Sat evening.
Found a computer guy in town who decided our AC charger had problems but no replacement available. Learned that we can still use the computer if we remove the battery and use the DC adapter we carry. Won’t be able to take it ashore for wifi but at least it still works with our cellphone stick.
Met up with friends Scott and Donna from Saltine and they convinced us to move with them to another better protected anchorage a couple miles away to weather out the upcoming bad weather.
Tues- After a trip to town for Gas, diesel, veggies and to exchange books at the library we headed off to a group of cays called Red Shanks. We had studied this area on the charts and it looked very narrow and shallow but turned out to be a fantastic spot. Anchored with 5 sailboats who all got together on the pristine beach for sunset cocktails. A fierce but shortlived thunderstorm during the night had us scrambling to close up the boat.
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| Cocktails on the beach(daily at 5:30) |
Wed thru Fri- Spending our days lazing about enjoying all the area has to offer between thunderstorms. Weather is very unsettled after having been mostly tranquil the past 7 weeks. Good snorkeling and beaches all around. Plan on being here for a few more days until weather improves. Torrential rains and strong winds have accompanied the thunderstorms and the worst always seem to come after dark. Moved the boat a short distance Friday to give us a little better protection as the winds shift. Daily cocktail party on the beach where we get to meet our neighbors.
Sat May 2nd thru Wed May 6th- Spending our days exploring this fascinating area. Hiking and snorkeling on Crab Cay which is the site of yet another failed development. Still wind and scattered thunderstorms but we manage to get out most days. Monday Chris spent baking, it’s a good thing it doesn’t rain often or our waistlines would expand even more. On Wed we decided to move back to Kidd Cove for a few provisions in Georgetown prior to moving on but after a bit of shopping found the anchorage was a bit to rough for our liking and we were back to the peace and calm at Red Shanks and another happy hour on the beach.
Our plans this year were to continue south to explore the island chain called the Jumentos. This area requires settled weather as it offers very few protected anchorages and no services for the boater. With the weather predicted to be unsettled for the foreseeable future we modify our plans and decide to cross to Long island.
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| exploring loyalist ruins- Crab cay |
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| another failed resort- Crab Cay |
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| Beautiful bridge to nowhere- Crab Cay Development |
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| canal to nowhere- Crab Cay |
Monday, April 6, 2015
South to Eleuthra
Fri-April 3rd, We head out into what seemed to be favorable winds and seas but after 2 hours the winds turned on our nose and we were pounding into rough seas. Caution prevailed and we decided not to beat ourselves up making this 70 mile trip and we returned to port.
The following morning the seas had calmed and even though there wasn’t wind for sailing we decided to try again. We motored south all day making good time in the long swells. Hooked a huge fish that I apparently wasn’t patient enough with and lost it when the 150 lb test braided line parted on it’s first leap. Not sure what it was but judging from what we saw I can’t imagine getting it aboard. Had fuel problems again as we were closing on our first landfall of Egg Island but by then we had enough breeze that Chris was able to sail us into the cut while I changed both filters and primed the engine. Only another 6 miles brought us to the protected harbor of Royal Island where we have spent many peaceful nights in the past. Even with the engine problems we still covered the 65 statute miles in 9 hours.
Sunday - After a peaceful night at anchor I decided I had to tackle the source of our fuel problems that have plagued us since leaving Florida. Since the tank is only half full I am able to pump it dry with an electric pump into the spare cans I carry and then flush tank clean. This entails unbolting it so I can tilt it to get all the remains out. Needless to say this means working in a very confined space which is the reason I have put this process off. The end result was that I removed 1.75 ltr of water from the bottom of the tank. Hopefully this is the end of our fuel issues.
Spent the afternoon snorkeling on the north side of the island then on our return were invited aboard a neighboring boat from Montreal for cocktails and interesting conversation.
Meeks Patch-April 7th, A short motor to Spanish Wells where we anchored out and made the trip to town for groceries and fuel. This is one of the best kept towns we have found in all the Bahamas. The residents who are descendants of white loyalists are hard working fishermen and supply all the spiny lobster for the Red Lobster chain. The boats, homes and grounds are all well kept and we always feel welcome when we visit.
For the evening we motor the short distance to a small island called Meeks Patch where we anchor off a pretty sand beach.
Glass Window- April 8th, We fly thru Current Cut running with the tide adding an extra 4 kts to our speed, unfortunately as we exit the cut this means we pound into a steep chop for a while as we motor into the wind. We anchor off the beach at the Glass Window and enjoy the protection of the high hills.
We hike to what has been one of our favorite spots, an abandoned castle looking house on the Oceanside cliffs with great natural pools kept filled by the seas. To our disappointment someone is in the process of renovating and building additions so we no longer have our private paradise. Spent the afternoon relaxing on another pristine beach the in the morning made our way back to the Oceanside to enjoy the morning sun at the Queens Baths, more natural pools in a cove in the cliffs. This is a national park site but unmarked so it gets very few visitors.
Hatchet Bay- April 9th- motor south into a moderate chop with a stop at Hatchet Bay. This tiny town is perched on the hills looking over a natural harbor. We have made this stop to visit Island Boy, a fisherman we normally buy frozen lobster from. We find him with empty freezers as his boat recently burned when another boat caught fire and drifted into his resulting in a complete loss. We move on to another favorite spot, Hatchet Bay where we anchor and go in to find John, who we normally buy Stone crab claws from. We end up dealing with one of his workers and even though I brought him a 6 pack of beer the deal wasn’t nearly as good as in previous years. Still had a great couple of dinners.
Fri and Sat- The wind is still making travel south difficult so we spend two days wandering around and hiking to the ocean beaches.
Governors Harbor- Sun, Mon and Tuesday- Seas have calmed considerably so we motor south to Governors Harbor. This colonial town sits on the hills overlooking the commercial harbor. The homes are all well kept but appear to be mostly owned by seasonal residents. We enjoy time on the pink sand beaches that line the ocean side. Are able to get our propane filled and provision with a few fresh veggies.
Rock Sound- Wed and Thurs-Motor south with light winds and calm water. Anchor off of town where we bought Conch from the local fisherman. They gather at the town dock nightly to clean their catch and the locals flock down to buy dinner. A staple of the locals are small snapper that they fry whole. Some shopping and hiking about filled our time. Thurs evening the boat Floridian pulled in and we friends Lynn and Paul for drinks. They brought us fresh caught Mutton Snapper fillets which made a great dinner.(I didn’t have the heart to tell them we still had a freezer full)
The following morning the seas had calmed and even though there wasn’t wind for sailing we decided to try again. We motored south all day making good time in the long swells. Hooked a huge fish that I apparently wasn’t patient enough with and lost it when the 150 lb test braided line parted on it’s first leap. Not sure what it was but judging from what we saw I can’t imagine getting it aboard. Had fuel problems again as we were closing on our first landfall of Egg Island but by then we had enough breeze that Chris was able to sail us into the cut while I changed both filters and primed the engine. Only another 6 miles brought us to the protected harbor of Royal Island where we have spent many peaceful nights in the past. Even with the engine problems we still covered the 65 statute miles in 9 hours.
Sunday - After a peaceful night at anchor I decided I had to tackle the source of our fuel problems that have plagued us since leaving Florida. Since the tank is only half full I am able to pump it dry with an electric pump into the spare cans I carry and then flush tank clean. This entails unbolting it so I can tilt it to get all the remains out. Needless to say this means working in a very confined space which is the reason I have put this process off. The end result was that I removed 1.75 ltr of water from the bottom of the tank. Hopefully this is the end of our fuel issues.
Spent the afternoon snorkeling on the north side of the island then on our return were invited aboard a neighboring boat from Montreal for cocktails and interesting conversation.
Meeks Patch-April 7th, A short motor to Spanish Wells where we anchored out and made the trip to town for groceries and fuel. This is one of the best kept towns we have found in all the Bahamas. The residents who are descendants of white loyalists are hard working fishermen and supply all the spiny lobster for the Red Lobster chain. The boats, homes and grounds are all well kept and we always feel welcome when we visit.
For the evening we motor the short distance to a small island called Meeks Patch where we anchor off a pretty sand beach.
Glass Window- April 8th, We fly thru Current Cut running with the tide adding an extra 4 kts to our speed, unfortunately as we exit the cut this means we pound into a steep chop for a while as we motor into the wind. We anchor off the beach at the Glass Window and enjoy the protection of the high hills.
We hike to what has been one of our favorite spots, an abandoned castle looking house on the Oceanside cliffs with great natural pools kept filled by the seas. To our disappointment someone is in the process of renovating and building additions so we no longer have our private paradise. Spent the afternoon relaxing on another pristine beach the in the morning made our way back to the Oceanside to enjoy the morning sun at the Queens Baths, more natural pools in a cove in the cliffs. This is a national park site but unmarked so it gets very few visitors.
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| Oceanside coast North Eleuthra |
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oceanside beach
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Fri and Sat- The wind is still making travel south difficult so we spend two days wandering around and hiking to the ocean beaches.
Governors Harbor- Sun, Mon and Tuesday- Seas have calmed considerably so we motor south to Governors Harbor. This colonial town sits on the hills overlooking the commercial harbor. The homes are all well kept but appear to be mostly owned by seasonal residents. We enjoy time on the pink sand beaches that line the ocean side. Are able to get our propane filled and provision with a few fresh veggies.
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| Pink snad beach, oceanside Governors Harbor |
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| oceanside Governors Harbor |
Rock Sound- Wed and Thurs-Motor south with light winds and calm water. Anchor off of town where we bought Conch from the local fisherman. They gather at the town dock nightly to clean their catch and the locals flock down to buy dinner. A staple of the locals are small snapper that they fry whole. Some shopping and hiking about filled our time. Thurs evening the boat Floridian pulled in and we friends Lynn and Paul for drinks. They brought us fresh caught Mutton Snapper fillets which made a great dinner.(I didn’t have the heart to tell them we still had a freezer full)
Monday, March 23, 2015
Wandering about Abaco
Wed March 17th thru Mon March 23rd--
With warm sunny days in the mid 80's and nights around 70 we find ourselves being lazy relaxing on the many area beaches. On Wed morning in dead calm Chris climbed the mast to take care of some chores we had been putting off. I havn't been able to do any strenuous work since Oct as I have been batteling a herniated cervical disk and still have trouble looking up or using my arms above chest level. Chris was able to replace our broken windvane and reave a new spinnaker halyard. Note that even with our new mast steps we still use a safety harness.
Later that morning we decide to head south which requires a jog out into the ocean to round Whale Cay. As we approach the cut the swells are rolling in with alarming size and we decide to play it safe and return to Green Turtle Cay. The next morning we head south again but with a full moon(supermoon) giving an extra high tide we take the inside route called don't rock passage that I have always wanted to try. We could never make it at low tide but with an extra 3 ft we see no less than 6 ft of water. The ocean waves were still making their way into this area but just a gentle 4 ft swell.
Spent Friday night anchored near Water Cay taking advantage of the extra low tides to explore a few backwater areas on foot. After spending the day Saturday exploring in the dinghy and a day on the beach we head into the protected anchorage at Treasure Cay where we can use the resorts facilities for a minimal fee.
Sunday was another glorious beach day and today(mon) we were able to get to the Batelco (phone co.) office to get sim cards for our phone and computer. We now should have internet wherever 3g service is available (a surprising number of islands).
Monday March 23rd thru April 4th
Settled weather allows us to visit many different anchorages we have missed the past couple of years. We spent time at Fishers Bay on Great Guana Cay, Water Cay off of Great Abaco, Man-o-War Cay, then back to Treasure Cay to ride out the latest cold front.
Our next stop is Marsh Harbor where Chris got to stock up on fresh veggies at the supermarket there. This is the only small city in Abaco and boasts most everything a boater would need. Picked up a case of our favorite rum “ Fire in da hole” it being one of the few things that is a bargain compared to US prices. Also a visit to the fish market for frozen Conch and Lobster tails without shells. We always thought that buying from the local fisherman was the best deal but find that since we freeze most for future use the price is just as good and sometimes better.
Snake Cay- On wed April 1st we made our way to a spot that has always attracted us but is only favorable in west winds. We anchor in the lee of what at one time was a huge port complex and is now abandoned. We spent an enjoyable afternoon on 5 mile dingy excursion into the back waters of the numerous cays that dot this coastline. Hundreds of sea turtles along with many huge rays were the highlight of this trip. Thankfully I brought along the gps map to guide us as we wound our way thru miles of shallows dotted with many small islands.
Lynyard Cay- Tranquil weather has been with us for much of the trip thus far but with the predicted return of strong trade winds next week we decide to prepare to cross open ocean to Eleuthra while we can. We spend a quiet night anchored close to the Little Harbor inlet where we exit the Sea of Abaco.
With warm sunny days in the mid 80's and nights around 70 we find ourselves being lazy relaxing on the many area beaches. On Wed morning in dead calm Chris climbed the mast to take care of some chores we had been putting off. I havn't been able to do any strenuous work since Oct as I have been batteling a herniated cervical disk and still have trouble looking up or using my arms above chest level. Chris was able to replace our broken windvane and reave a new spinnaker halyard. Note that even with our new mast steps we still use a safety harness.
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| Chris enjoying the view from 55 ft up |
Spent Friday night anchored near Water Cay taking advantage of the extra low tides to explore a few backwater areas on foot. After spending the day Saturday exploring in the dinghy and a day on the beach we head into the protected anchorage at Treasure Cay where we can use the resorts facilities for a minimal fee.
Sunday was another glorious beach day and today(mon) we were able to get to the Batelco (phone co.) office to get sim cards for our phone and computer. We now should have internet wherever 3g service is available (a surprising number of islands).
Monday March 23rd thru April 4th
Settled weather allows us to visit many different anchorages we have missed the past couple of years. We spent time at Fishers Bay on Great Guana Cay, Water Cay off of Great Abaco, Man-o-War Cay, then back to Treasure Cay to ride out the latest cold front.
Our next stop is Marsh Harbor where Chris got to stock up on fresh veggies at the supermarket there. This is the only small city in Abaco and boasts most everything a boater would need. Picked up a case of our favorite rum “ Fire in da hole” it being one of the few things that is a bargain compared to US prices. Also a visit to the fish market for frozen Conch and Lobster tails without shells. We always thought that buying from the local fisherman was the best deal but find that since we freeze most for future use the price is just as good and sometimes better.
Snake Cay- On wed April 1st we made our way to a spot that has always attracted us but is only favorable in west winds. We anchor in the lee of what at one time was a huge port complex and is now abandoned. We spent an enjoyable afternoon on 5 mile dingy excursion into the back waters of the numerous cays that dot this coastline. Hundreds of sea turtles along with many huge rays were the highlight of this trip. Thankfully I brought along the gps map to guide us as we wound our way thru miles of shallows dotted with many small islands.
Lynyard Cay- Tranquil weather has been with us for much of the trip thus far but with the predicted return of strong trade winds next week we decide to prepare to cross open ocean to Eleuthra while we can. We spend a quiet night anchored close to the Little Harbor inlet where we exit the Sea of Abaco.
Wednesday, March 18, 2015
back to the bahamas 2015
Bahamas Bound, Spring 2015
After spending a quiet winter enjoying the sunshine and warm Florida temps we are finally ready to set sail on our annual Bahamas Cruise. Chris has been busy provisioning for a three month sail and the boat is loaded and just awaiting favorable weather.
The winds over the past few weeks have been blowing strong from the east and the ocean has been very rough. The weatherman has promised a break by this Sunday so we are off on another adventure.
Friday March 13th- Going against sailors superstition of never starting a journey on a Friday, never mind the 13th we head south to meet up with friends Greg and Duwan on Blue Wing at Pecks Lake. They normally winter in the Bahamas but have opted this year to stick around and are now heading for the Keys.
Sat- As much as I hate traveling the Intracostal on a weekend we head south for Lake Worth (Palm Beach) where we will anchor near the inlet for an early start. As expected tons of boat traffic has us bouncing along most of the trip. About at Jupiter I realized I left our spare propane tank sitting in the shed at home, not a disaster but nice to have a spare as most of our cruising is away from the populated areas. A call to our long time friend Bob LaRoy was all it took for him to rush down and meet us with the tank. As we call it an early night the winds are finally subsiding but I can’t imagine the seas will calm down by morning.
Sun- Up at 3 AM under starry skies and calm wind. We head out and much to our amazement the ocean has settled down to a manageable 3 ft swell. The south wind that we had hoped for barely materialized but we would much rather motor across than pound into rough seas.
In the past one of our greatest concerns as we cross the shipping lanes has been trying to calculate how close we will be to the giant freighters and Cruise ships in our path. In the dark we both have trouble telling distances and these ships are the size of 3 football fields and moving at 20 mph. My solution this year was to update our chart plotter/fishfinder with a larger unit that I was able to add Radar and AIS (automatic ident. System) to. The AIS is amazing in that all commercial vessels broadcast a signal that gives their name and ID # and the unit then displays a ton of data most importantly their course and how close we will approach them. This along with the radar really took a lot of the anxiety out of the crossing as we were in the path of at least 8 huge ships during the crossing.
All went smoothly until about 25 mi out I notice a steady stream of water coming from our bilge pump. As I step below I am greeted with the sight no boater wants to see of water flowing across the floor. This led to a few anxious seconds until I realize the water is hot and coming from our water heater. A broken fitting and 35 gallons of our precious drinking water was all that resulted from what at first seemed like a major catastrophe.
Not long after the engine, which had been purring along smoothly faltered and died. It only took a few minutes to find our diesel filter/water seperator was full of water, but the fix took about an hour of sweaty work replacing both filters, purging the bad fuel from the system and bleeding the system. I have been thru this procedure on other occasions but this time it took a major effort to get running again. Never mind being nervous wondering if we would be stuck 30 miles offshore with no wind.


Our luck turned around when I decided to wet a few lines. The first fish on was a nice skipjack tuna (bonita) which are very bloody and not good table fare but make great bait. Within minutes of the bait hitting the water the rod started to scream. After a long battle we were able to board a beautiful Mahi (dorado or dolfin fish) which is one of our favorites. With hardly any extra freezer space this early in the trip I called a halt to fishing. We treated ourselves to a feast of fresh dolfin for both lunch and dinner and still froze fillets for 8 more dinners.


Even with our engine troubles that had us drifting north about 3 miles in the gulf current we still made landfall at our anchorage at 5:30 making the trip of 77 nautical miles(about 88 statute miles) in under 14 hours. We topped of a near perfect day with a dip in the warm clear water and a few cocktails as we enjoyed a beautiful sunset.
Monday- After a peaceful night we set out under brisk winds and full sail. All to soon the winds veered to the east and we were now what beating into wind and seas, this called for a change of plans and after 24 miles we headed for the protected anchorage at Great Sail Cay. This uninhabited island is a favorite stopover for boats along this route and we spent a peaceful nite at anchor. Adding to the excitement of this sail was catching a huge barracuda (released) and a fat mutton snapper that made a great dinner plus 2 dinners in the freezer.
Tuesday- Light winds find us motor sailing east for most of the day. Thankfully there was plenty of exciting fishing to break up the trip. We brought aboard two big barracudas and a Spanish mackerel. The barracudas were both way to big(any over 30 inches can build up toxins and are not fit to eat) but we had a fine lunch of the Spanish mackerel. Spent a rolly night anchored in Allens-Pensacola Cay as the wind that was promised all day finally materialized.

Wed- Lite winds plague us yet again as we turn south along the Abacoes. Motor to Green Turtle Cay where we clear customs, pay for our cruising permit then head in to a mooring at our old friend Donnies. Caught another nice mutton snapper and another Spanish Mackerel which may have to go into chowder as the freezers are overfull.
After spending a quiet winter enjoying the sunshine and warm Florida temps we are finally ready to set sail on our annual Bahamas Cruise. Chris has been busy provisioning for a three month sail and the boat is loaded and just awaiting favorable weather.
The winds over the past few weeks have been blowing strong from the east and the ocean has been very rough. The weatherman has promised a break by this Sunday so we are off on another adventure.
Friday March 13th- Going against sailors superstition of never starting a journey on a Friday, never mind the 13th we head south to meet up with friends Greg and Duwan on Blue Wing at Pecks Lake. They normally winter in the Bahamas but have opted this year to stick around and are now heading for the Keys.
Sat- As much as I hate traveling the Intracostal on a weekend we head south for Lake Worth (Palm Beach) where we will anchor near the inlet for an early start. As expected tons of boat traffic has us bouncing along most of the trip. About at Jupiter I realized I left our spare propane tank sitting in the shed at home, not a disaster but nice to have a spare as most of our cruising is away from the populated areas. A call to our long time friend Bob LaRoy was all it took for him to rush down and meet us with the tank. As we call it an early night the winds are finally subsiding but I can’t imagine the seas will calm down by morning.
Sun- Up at 3 AM under starry skies and calm wind. We head out and much to our amazement the ocean has settled down to a manageable 3 ft swell. The south wind that we had hoped for barely materialized but we would much rather motor across than pound into rough seas.
In the past one of our greatest concerns as we cross the shipping lanes has been trying to calculate how close we will be to the giant freighters and Cruise ships in our path. In the dark we both have trouble telling distances and these ships are the size of 3 football fields and moving at 20 mph. My solution this year was to update our chart plotter/fishfinder with a larger unit that I was able to add Radar and AIS (automatic ident. System) to. The AIS is amazing in that all commercial vessels broadcast a signal that gives their name and ID # and the unit then displays a ton of data most importantly their course and how close we will approach them. This along with the radar really took a lot of the anxiety out of the crossing as we were in the path of at least 8 huge ships during the crossing.
All went smoothly until about 25 mi out I notice a steady stream of water coming from our bilge pump. As I step below I am greeted with the sight no boater wants to see of water flowing across the floor. This led to a few anxious seconds until I realize the water is hot and coming from our water heater. A broken fitting and 35 gallons of our precious drinking water was all that resulted from what at first seemed like a major catastrophe.
Not long after the engine, which had been purring along smoothly faltered and died. It only took a few minutes to find our diesel filter/water seperator was full of water, but the fix took about an hour of sweaty work replacing both filters, purging the bad fuel from the system and bleeding the system. I have been thru this procedure on other occasions but this time it took a major effort to get running again. Never mind being nervous wondering if we would be stuck 30 miles offshore with no wind.

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| sailing into the sunrise |
 |
| the admiral (napping) at the helm |
Our luck turned around when I decided to wet a few lines. The first fish on was a nice skipjack tuna (bonita) which are very bloody and not good table fare but make great bait. Within minutes of the bait hitting the water the rod started to scream. After a long battle we were able to board a beautiful Mahi (dorado or dolfin fish) which is one of our favorites. With hardly any extra freezer space this early in the trip I called a halt to fishing. We treated ourselves to a feast of fresh dolfin for both lunch and dinner and still froze fillets for 8 more dinners.

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| this will fill the freezer |

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| hurry up I can't hold it! |
Even with our engine troubles that had us drifting north about 3 miles in the gulf current we still made landfall at our anchorage at 5:30 making the trip of 77 nautical miles(about 88 statute miles) in under 14 hours. We topped of a near perfect day with a dip in the warm clear water and a few cocktails as we enjoyed a beautiful sunset.
Monday- After a peaceful night we set out under brisk winds and full sail. All to soon the winds veered to the east and we were now what beating into wind and seas, this called for a change of plans and after 24 miles we headed for the protected anchorage at Great Sail Cay. This uninhabited island is a favorite stopover for boats along this route and we spent a peaceful nite at anchor. Adding to the excitement of this sail was catching a huge barracuda (released) and a fat mutton snapper that made a great dinner plus 2 dinners in the freezer.
Tuesday- Light winds find us motor sailing east for most of the day. Thankfully there was plenty of exciting fishing to break up the trip. We brought aboard two big barracudas and a Spanish mackerel. The barracudas were both way to big(any over 30 inches can build up toxins and are not fit to eat) but we had a fine lunch of the Spanish mackerel. Spent a rolly night anchored in Allens-Pensacola Cay as the wind that was promised all day finally materialized.

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| another few dinners, where do we keep it? |
Wed- Lite winds plague us yet again as we turn south along the Abacoes. Motor to Green Turtle Cay where we clear customs, pay for our cruising permit then head in to a mooring at our old friend Donnies. Caught another nice mutton snapper and another Spanish Mackerel which may have to go into chowder as the freezers are overfull.
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