Thursday, May 30, 2013
North to Abacoe
Fri, May 24th-Lynyard Cay, Abacoe
An early start with calm seas and wind finds us motoring north crossing the shipping lanes in the NE Providence Channel. The weather comes on at 6:30 on the SSB radio and the prediction sounded great, but as we entered the open ocean thru Egg cut dark clouds on the horizon had us questioning this report. A swell running in from the east makes for a rolly ride. After a day spent dodging numerous thunderstorms we arrived at Little Harbor inlet only to find it obscured by a heavy thundershower. Rather than attempt this cut with low visibility we stayed offshore until the storm had passed. Anchored for the night at 4:30 and enjoyed a quiet evening under clearing skies.
Sat- Marsh Harbor
With a strong east wind we had a great sail north in the protected Sea of Abacoe under reefed main and partial Jib. Anchored in Marsh Harbor by lunchtime and were surprised to find numerous other cruisers still there. A trip to the supermarket for fresh veggies then on to the liquor store for a case of our favorite rum to bring home.
Sun thru Thurs- Treasure Cay
Once again a prediction of stormy weather is controlling our plans. The winds are expected to build into the 20 to 30 kt range with numerous t-storms thru the week. We fly north under reefed main and partial Jib making the anchorage at Treasure Cay in record time. This is one of Chris' favorite spots with a protected harbor and use of the resorts facilities. Our days have been spent walking the 3 mile pristine beach, biking around between showers and generally being lazy. Cabin fever has definitely set in but it looks like we are stuck here for at least a few more days.
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
Northbound thru the Eastern Family Islands
Mon & Tues, May 13th-14th
Fernandez Bay-Cat Island
We work our way north with a short sail to the sandy cove off the small resort called Fernandez Bay. Fast wifi allowed us to call(skype) the girls and catch up on all the news. On Tues afternoon we were joined by another sailboat Dreamtime, the first we've seen in days and it happens they were a group of medical people from near our northern home (Saranac Lake). We met later in the resorts lounge and enjoyed an evening of live music and drinks from the self serve honor system bar.
Wed-Thurs, Bennetts Harbor
After settling up our bar tab we made a stop at Smith Bay for water and a few veggies then enjoyed a great sail under reefed sails to anchor off of Bennetts Harbor. Walked around town and enjoyed a few beers at a little roadside stand called Yannies.
Fri, Half Moon Cay
Another great sailing day as we made our way west to Little San Salvador (aka Half moon Cay). Caught a number of fish along the way keeping only one large Jack as our freezer is already full of fish. Spent the afternoon on the beautiful beach along with a little snorkeling. This Island is owned by the Carnival Cruise line and is a day stop for many ships. Thankfully we had the place as our private resort but a ship is due in early morning so we weren't allowed to anchor in the preferred spot and spent a rolly night with swells rocking us to sleep(or not!).
Sat, Plum Creek Eleuthra
Off early as a cruise ship disembarked hoards of beachgoers via large tenders. Decided that another night of rolling around was out of the question so we sailed north for Eleuthra. A great sail with some fun fishing. While bringing a small fish alongside I noticed it's tail was gone and right behind it was a big Mahi. Let the line out and watched as the Mahi grabbed the fish and took off. Unfortunately it was a quick fight as he got off but was exciting to watch in these christal clear waters. Anchored in shallow Plum Creek and explored the creeks upper reaches by dingy.
Sun, Bush Cay, Exuma
Another change of plans as we are due for some stormy weather in a couple of days and have been having noises from out engines transmission that have had me concerned. The area we are traveling is very remote with no marine services. Our normal track would have taken us north thru Eleuthra but the we would have to pass thru Current Cut which as it's name implies is a narrow channel with very swift currents. Not something I wanted to attempt without a reliable engine. Thus we decided to cross west to northern Exuma and then head north thru an easier passage.
After an exhilarating sail across the 30 miles of Exuma Sound with large rolling seas on our stern we anchored in the lee of tiny Bush Cay. We knew we were in for a bouncy night as the island didn't give us much protection from the seas but the only good anchorage would have taken us 6 mi out of our way to the south.
Mon thru Wed, Spanish Wells, Eleuthra
Anchor up at 7 and off sailing north under reefed main and small jib. Covered the 50 miles in record time keeping our speed over 6.5 kts all day. A little unnerving in one section as we dodged coral heads then passed thru a 5 mile stretch of 6 ft deep water over pure white sand. A rising tide and having passed thru this area previous years probably gave me undeserved confidence. Arrived in Spanish Wells by 3 pm and picked up a mooring planning to ride out the upcoming storms in this protected harbor. Hoped to find a mechanic to look at our gearbox here but after a walk to the supposed Yanmar dealer (pinders garage) I was discouraged by what I found.
Tue- With fast wifi I was able to find a lot of info on our gearbox and it appears a slipping clutch caused by glazing is a common problem. I pulled the gearbox, and after draining and inspecting the spotless internals as far as I could go without a gearpuller I found I could adjust the foreward clutch engagement slightly. Back together and seems better but to stormy today to take out for trials.
Wed- Thunder storms with torrential rains all night and most of the day have us holed up in the boat. This is the first real heavy rain this trip and I collected water to fill our tanks.
Fernandez Bay-Cat Island
We work our way north with a short sail to the sandy cove off the small resort called Fernandez Bay. Fast wifi allowed us to call(skype) the girls and catch up on all the news. On Tues afternoon we were joined by another sailboat Dreamtime, the first we've seen in days and it happens they were a group of medical people from near our northern home (Saranac Lake). We met later in the resorts lounge and enjoyed an evening of live music and drinks from the self serve honor system bar.
Wed-Thurs, Bennetts Harbor
After settling up our bar tab we made a stop at Smith Bay for water and a few veggies then enjoyed a great sail under reefed sails to anchor off of Bennetts Harbor. Walked around town and enjoyed a few beers at a little roadside stand called Yannies.
Fri, Half Moon Cay
Another great sailing day as we made our way west to Little San Salvador (aka Half moon Cay). Caught a number of fish along the way keeping only one large Jack as our freezer is already full of fish. Spent the afternoon on the beautiful beach along with a little snorkeling. This Island is owned by the Carnival Cruise line and is a day stop for many ships. Thankfully we had the place as our private resort but a ship is due in early morning so we weren't allowed to anchor in the preferred spot and spent a rolly night with swells rocking us to sleep(or not!).
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| dolphins escorting us into Half Moon Bay |
Sat, Plum Creek Eleuthra
Off early as a cruise ship disembarked hoards of beachgoers via large tenders. Decided that another night of rolling around was out of the question so we sailed north for Eleuthra. A great sail with some fun fishing. While bringing a small fish alongside I noticed it's tail was gone and right behind it was a big Mahi. Let the line out and watched as the Mahi grabbed the fish and took off. Unfortunately it was a quick fight as he got off but was exciting to watch in these christal clear waters. Anchored in shallow Plum Creek and explored the creeks upper reaches by dingy.
Sun, Bush Cay, Exuma
Another change of plans as we are due for some stormy weather in a couple of days and have been having noises from out engines transmission that have had me concerned. The area we are traveling is very remote with no marine services. Our normal track would have taken us north thru Eleuthra but the we would have to pass thru Current Cut which as it's name implies is a narrow channel with very swift currents. Not something I wanted to attempt without a reliable engine. Thus we decided to cross west to northern Exuma and then head north thru an easier passage.
After an exhilarating sail across the 30 miles of Exuma Sound with large rolling seas on our stern we anchored in the lee of tiny Bush Cay. We knew we were in for a bouncy night as the island didn't give us much protection from the seas but the only good anchorage would have taken us 6 mi out of our way to the south.
Mon thru Wed, Spanish Wells, Eleuthra
Anchor up at 7 and off sailing north under reefed main and small jib. Covered the 50 miles in record time keeping our speed over 6.5 kts all day. A little unnerving in one section as we dodged coral heads then passed thru a 5 mile stretch of 6 ft deep water over pure white sand. A rising tide and having passed thru this area previous years probably gave me undeserved confidence. Arrived in Spanish Wells by 3 pm and picked up a mooring planning to ride out the upcoming storms in this protected harbor. Hoped to find a mechanic to look at our gearbox here but after a walk to the supposed Yanmar dealer (pinders garage) I was discouraged by what I found.
Tue- With fast wifi I was able to find a lot of info on our gearbox and it appears a slipping clutch caused by glazing is a common problem. I pulled the gearbox, and after draining and inspecting the spotless internals as far as I could go without a gearpuller I found I could adjust the foreward clutch engagement slightly. Back together and seems better but to stormy today to take out for trials.
Wed- Thunder storms with torrential rains all night and most of the day have us holed up in the boat. This is the first real heavy rain this trip and I collected water to fill our tanks.
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| Spanish Wells Harbor
Thurs- Royal Island
With the weather expected to improve by tomorrow we move to the anchorage at Royal to be ready to cross to Abacoe. Still a few storms around but a much nicer day. Transmission seems ok at least for the 6 mile run here.
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Thursday, May 9, 2013
On to new horizons
Sun, May 5th-Long Island
Decided it was time to move on and get back to the quieter spots we have become accustomed to. Civilization is great for a while but not why we are cruising. Our plan was to head south to explore southern Long Island and the Jumentos but like all plans we tend to adjust with the weather. For the shortest route south we need to pass thru the Hog Cay Cut and this has to be done at high tide even with our shallow draft. Had hoped to anchor and wait out the tide while exploring the area but it was to rough for comfort and decided to continue on to Thompsons Bay, Long Island. Anchored by 3 pm and had a quiet evening.
Conception I
Mon-Conception Island
Motor sailed north then east into the open ocean and made landfall at Conception by 5 pm. With the wind direction we chose to anchor on the beautiful east side but were exposed to a swell that made for a rolly night. Had planned to spend a couple of days here but as usual changed plans.
Tues- Rum Cay
We have wanted to visit Rum Cay on previous trips but the weather had always kept us away. With light winds from a favorable direction predicted we set out under sail and made landfall by mid afternoon. The marina at Rum has been closed for a few years due to Hurricane damage but we heard that you could still tie up at their docks as long as you could make it in the shallow channel. Having bright sun overhead and a rising tide we carefully made our way in among numerous coral heads and were welcomed at the docks by the owners. Bobby and Grow made us feel at home and recommended a few of the nearby reefs for snorkeling. Later a neighbor Tyler cruising from Fl on a 25 ft Oday offered us a fillet from a nice Grouper he had just speared and invited us to join a few others for a great fish fry in the clubhouse. We had thawed the last of our lobster tails and added 6 tails to the feast. Even though the marina is closed the owners still welcome the use of the facilities and only charge for the normal extras (showers,ice,water, garbage, wifi) but no dock fees(no electric). In it's heyday this must have been a hopping place as a mecca for divers and sportfisherman. Hopefully the owner Bobby can return it to its previous glory and we wish him all the best.
Wed-Thurs
After a very warm and buggy night with no breeze we were off for more snorkeling while the seas were calm. Biked both days on the few roads in this quiet paridise visiting another huge failed resort, the great ocean beaches, and the abandonded salt works that were the livelyhood of the island in colonial days. There are very few cars and only a few atvs which made the biking a joy. The nights are still buggy but judicious use of screens and a bit more breeze has made it bearable.That evening we invited Tyler aboard for another meal of grilled grouper and still had enough left to freeze.
Sat evening we were included in a pot luck attended by about 20 boaters. A local fisherman supplied a huge Mahi and our contribution was a big batch of conk fritters and smoked sailfish spread. A big thunderstorm blew thru as we partied and we were happy to be in the protected harbor.
Fri and Sat- Conception Island West
Time to move on while the winds are fair and we sailed back to Conception Island this time anchoring in the west bay. Conception is totally undeveloped as it is part of the Bahamas National Park. Chris has decided that this is her newest favorite spot but with no services (water) and limited protection is only visited in settled weather. Spent our days on the pristine beaches and exploring the extensive system of creeks and tidal flats inland. Numerous nurse sharks, hundreds of sea turtles, birds and conk abound in these shallow waters. Since we plan on traveling on Mon we celebrated mothers day and Chris was Queen for the day. I pulled the last of our stone crab claws from the freezer and we had a feast that included a berry tart I baked from our home canned stores.
Sun- Cat Island
With a cold front predicted on Mon we move on to better protection on Cat Island. A great sail across the open ocean waters brought us into the Bight in southern Cat to anchor in the gin clear waters by 4pm. Brought in a great Mahi as we neared landfall and it put up a real fight leaping skyward at least 6 times. It was followed in by another smaller mahi that was bright blue. The colors of these fish are amazing but fade within minutes of landing them. Chris did a great job handling the boat and gaffing the fish. Since we were under full sail running wing on wing with the jib poled out there was no easy way for her to slow the boat. Once again the freezer is full and we had another great meal.
Decided it was time to move on and get back to the quieter spots we have become accustomed to. Civilization is great for a while but not why we are cruising. Our plan was to head south to explore southern Long Island and the Jumentos but like all plans we tend to adjust with the weather. For the shortest route south we need to pass thru the Hog Cay Cut and this has to be done at high tide even with our shallow draft. Had hoped to anchor and wait out the tide while exploring the area but it was to rough for comfort and decided to continue on to Thompsons Bay, Long Island. Anchored by 3 pm and had a quiet evening.
Conception I
Mon-Conception Island
Motor sailed north then east into the open ocean and made landfall at Conception by 5 pm. With the wind direction we chose to anchor on the beautiful east side but were exposed to a swell that made for a rolly night. Had planned to spend a couple of days here but as usual changed plans.
Tues- Rum Cay
We have wanted to visit Rum Cay on previous trips but the weather had always kept us away. With light winds from a favorable direction predicted we set out under sail and made landfall by mid afternoon. The marina at Rum has been closed for a few years due to Hurricane damage but we heard that you could still tie up at their docks as long as you could make it in the shallow channel. Having bright sun overhead and a rising tide we carefully made our way in among numerous coral heads and were welcomed at the docks by the owners. Bobby and Grow made us feel at home and recommended a few of the nearby reefs for snorkeling. Later a neighbor Tyler cruising from Fl on a 25 ft Oday offered us a fillet from a nice Grouper he had just speared and invited us to join a few others for a great fish fry in the clubhouse. We had thawed the last of our lobster tails and added 6 tails to the feast. Even though the marina is closed the owners still welcome the use of the facilities and only charge for the normal extras (showers,ice,water, garbage, wifi) but no dock fees(no electric). In it's heyday this must have been a hopping place as a mecca for divers and sportfisherman. Hopefully the owner Bobby can return it to its previous glory and we wish him all the best.
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| diorama from abandoned resort |
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| Failed marina excavated in limestone |
Wed-Thurs
After a very warm and buggy night with no breeze we were off for more snorkeling while the seas were calm. Biked both days on the few roads in this quiet paridise visiting another huge failed resort, the great ocean beaches, and the abandonded salt works that were the livelyhood of the island in colonial days. There are very few cars and only a few atvs which made the biking a joy. The nights are still buggy but judicious use of screens and a bit more breeze has made it bearable.That evening we invited Tyler aboard for another meal of grilled grouper and still had enough left to freeze.
Sat evening we were included in a pot luck attended by about 20 boaters. A local fisherman supplied a huge Mahi and our contribution was a big batch of conk fritters and smoked sailfish spread. A big thunderstorm blew thru as we partied and we were happy to be in the protected harbor.
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| Boaters pot luck in marina clubhouse |
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| awaiting a meal |
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| crazy kids teasing the resident sharks |
Fri and Sat- Conception Island West
Time to move on while the winds are fair and we sailed back to Conception Island this time anchoring in the west bay. Conception is totally undeveloped as it is part of the Bahamas National Park. Chris has decided that this is her newest favorite spot but with no services (water) and limited protection is only visited in settled weather. Spent our days on the pristine beaches and exploring the extensive system of creeks and tidal flats inland. Numerous nurse sharks, hundreds of sea turtles, birds and conk abound in these shallow waters. Since we plan on traveling on Mon we celebrated mothers day and Chris was Queen for the day. I pulled the last of our stone crab claws from the freezer and we had a feast that included a berry tart I baked from our home canned stores.
 | |
| tidal flats-up creek on Conception Is |
Sun- Cat Island
With a cold front predicted on Mon we move on to better protection on Cat Island. A great sail across the open ocean waters brought us into the Bight in southern Cat to anchor in the gin clear waters by 4pm. Brought in a great Mahi as we neared landfall and it put up a real fight leaping skyward at least 6 times. It was followed in by another smaller mahi that was bright blue. The colors of these fish are amazing but fade within minutes of landing them. Chris did a great job handling the boat and gaffing the fish. Since we were under full sail running wing on wing with the jib poled out there was no easy way for her to slow the boat. Once again the freezer is full and we had another great meal.
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| Mothers day fishing expedition |
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| a banner conk catch- Chris made me stop at 15 saying "remember how long it takes to clean them" |
Friday, May 3, 2013
Georgetown, Great Exuma 2013
South to Georgetown, Great Exuma
April 22nd- Little Farmers Cay
Decided that if we are to make Georgetown in time for regatta we need to move on. Motor south into wind and chop only getting to Little Farmers. Picked up mooring and bought a dozen cleaned conk from locals for $24.
Tues April 23rd- Lee Stocking Island
The research center at Lee Stocking has been a favorite stop and on a sad note we found it abandoned and being looted by the locals. From the extensive facilities it appears that in its day this was a bustling operation. We picked up a mooring in the harbor and spent the afternoon exploring the abandoned grounds. A visit from Jeff and Sue on a neighboring boat bearing a gift of a couple meals of fresh Mahi topped off a pleasant day.
Wed-on to Georgetown
With winds from a favorable nne direction we head outside to move south in the open ocean waters. A rough exit thru Rat Cay cut turned into a sporty sail under reefed main and jib. Exciting fishing thru the day first bringing a big bull mahi(also known as dorado or dolphin fish) alongside only to loose it trying to set the gaff. Next brought a long battle with what turned out to be a 6ft 8in billfish. Not sure if it is a sword or sailfish but since it was dead by the time we got it in we kept it. Normally these fish are released unharmed so we felt bad keeping such a prized sportfish. Soon after followed another mahi, not nearly as big as the first but at least we got this one aboard. The great part of this battle was seeing at least 3 other Mahi follow our catch right to the boat. I had read about this but to actually see these colorful fish in the crystal clear waters was fantastic.
Prior to anchoring at Monument beach among the crowd of other cruisers we stopped outside the anchorage to clean our catch so as not to attract sharks inside the anchorage. Since we now have more fish than we can possibly freeze a dingy ride around to our new neighbors passing out gifts of fresh fish was greeted with enthusiasm and many thanks.
Family Islands Race Week
Thurs thru Sun
The races at Georgetown attract over 50 traditional Bahamian sloops from all around the Bahamas. Four days of racing in 4 classes along with major partying ashore late into each evening makes for a fun filled week.
The dingy ride to town is a long wet ride with the strong winds each day but on Thurs we braved the trip to shop for much needed veggies and enjoy watching a few races while imbibing in a few local beers.
Fri once again brought brisk winds and exciting sailing. We dingyed to the windward mark along with numerous spectator boats both large and tiny where we were close to the action. Later we spent the evening on the beach enjoying music supplied by local cruisers.
Saturday once again brought sunny skies with a brisk wind. We joined a group of about 50 cruisers for a water taxi ride across the harbor to enjoy the final evening of festivities. The Bahamians really know how to party with thousands jamming the waterfront of this tiny town. The final race of the series was run in 20 kt winds and was followed by a parade and concert by the Royal Nassau Police Band. This was quite a sight with the members dancing in the street decked out in their finery which included leopard skins for the drum corps.
The rest of the week has found us wandering about exploring the island, biking on the mainland, doing housekeeping chores-hauling water and fuel, groceries and propane. A dingy raft up for cocktails and appetizers on Mon. was great fun with about 20 boats drifting thru the anchorage. By Thurs many of the cruisers have left for both points north and also a group heading south to summer below the hurricane belt.
Thurs evening we had friends Rick and Carla from Euphoria over for cocktails then headed in to Peace and Plenty resort for barbecue and a band around the pool.
Friday- Sat
More great weather, took advantage of wifi, Rick & Carla stopped and had cocktails late afternoon. On Sat we rented a car together and toured the islands of Great and Little Exuma and Barratare. Big lunch at Da-spot in Barratare. Topped off the evening with cocktails aboard Euphoria.
April 22nd- Little Farmers Cay
Decided that if we are to make Georgetown in time for regatta we need to move on. Motor south into wind and chop only getting to Little Farmers. Picked up mooring and bought a dozen cleaned conk from locals for $24.
Tues April 23rd- Lee Stocking Island
The research center at Lee Stocking has been a favorite stop and on a sad note we found it abandoned and being looted by the locals. From the extensive facilities it appears that in its day this was a bustling operation. We picked up a mooring in the harbor and spent the afternoon exploring the abandoned grounds. A visit from Jeff and Sue on a neighboring boat bearing a gift of a couple meals of fresh Mahi topped off a pleasant day.
Wed-on to Georgetown
With winds from a favorable nne direction we head outside to move south in the open ocean waters. A rough exit thru Rat Cay cut turned into a sporty sail under reefed main and jib. Exciting fishing thru the day first bringing a big bull mahi(also known as dorado or dolphin fish) alongside only to loose it trying to set the gaff. Next brought a long battle with what turned out to be a 6ft 8in billfish. Not sure if it is a sword or sailfish but since it was dead by the time we got it in we kept it. Normally these fish are released unharmed so we felt bad keeping such a prized sportfish. Soon after followed another mahi, not nearly as big as the first but at least we got this one aboard. The great part of this battle was seeing at least 3 other Mahi follow our catch right to the boat. I had read about this but to actually see these colorful fish in the crystal clear waters was fantastic.
Prior to anchoring at Monument beach among the crowd of other cruisers we stopped outside the anchorage to clean our catch so as not to attract sharks inside the anchorage. Since we now have more fish than we can possibly freeze a dingy ride around to our new neighbors passing out gifts of fresh fish was greeted with enthusiasm and many thanks.
My greatest catch yet
Family Islands Race Week
Thurs thru Sun
The races at Georgetown attract over 50 traditional Bahamian sloops from all around the Bahamas. Four days of racing in 4 classes along with major partying ashore late into each evening makes for a fun filled week.
The dingy ride to town is a long wet ride with the strong winds each day but on Thurs we braved the trip to shop for much needed veggies and enjoy watching a few races while imbibing in a few local beers.
Fri once again brought brisk winds and exciting sailing. We dingyed to the windward mark along with numerous spectator boats both large and tiny where we were close to the action. Later we spent the evening on the beach enjoying music supplied by local cruisers.
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| dueling A class racers |
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| Beach party |
Saturday once again brought sunny skies with a brisk wind. We joined a group of about 50 cruisers for a water taxi ride across the harbor to enjoy the final evening of festivities. The Bahamians really know how to party with thousands jamming the waterfront of this tiny town. The final race of the series was run in 20 kt winds and was followed by a parade and concert by the Royal Nassau Police Band. This was quite a sight with the members dancing in the street decked out in their finery which included leopard skins for the drum corps.
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| Nassau police band-dancing in the street |
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| Island freighter taking a load of racers home |
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| Class A boats at the final finish |
The rest of the week has found us wandering about exploring the island, biking on the mainland, doing housekeeping chores-hauling water and fuel, groceries and propane. A dingy raft up for cocktails and appetizers on Mon. was great fun with about 20 boats drifting thru the anchorage. By Thurs many of the cruisers have left for both points north and also a group heading south to summer below the hurricane belt.
Thurs evening we had friends Rick and Carla from Euphoria over for cocktails then headed in to Peace and Plenty resort for barbecue and a band around the pool.
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| Another perfect beach- stocking Island, ocean side |
Friday- Sat
More great weather, took advantage of wifi, Rick & Carla stopped and had cocktails late afternoon. On Sat we rented a car together and toured the islands of Great and Little Exuma and Barratare. Big lunch at Da-spot in Barratare. Topped off the evening with cocktails aboard Euphoria.
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