Thursday, May 30, 2013
North to Abacoe
Fri, May 24th-Lynyard Cay, Abacoe
An early start with calm seas and wind finds us motoring north crossing the shipping lanes in the NE Providence Channel. The weather comes on at 6:30 on the SSB radio and the prediction sounded great, but as we entered the open ocean thru Egg cut dark clouds on the horizon had us questioning this report. A swell running in from the east makes for a rolly ride. After a day spent dodging numerous thunderstorms we arrived at Little Harbor inlet only to find it obscured by a heavy thundershower. Rather than attempt this cut with low visibility we stayed offshore until the storm had passed. Anchored for the night at 4:30 and enjoyed a quiet evening under clearing skies.
Sat- Marsh Harbor
With a strong east wind we had a great sail north in the protected Sea of Abacoe under reefed main and partial Jib. Anchored in Marsh Harbor by lunchtime and were surprised to find numerous other cruisers still there. A trip to the supermarket for fresh veggies then on to the liquor store for a case of our favorite rum to bring home.
Sun thru Thurs- Treasure Cay
Once again a prediction of stormy weather is controlling our plans. The winds are expected to build into the 20 to 30 kt range with numerous t-storms thru the week. We fly north under reefed main and partial Jib making the anchorage at Treasure Cay in record time. This is one of Chris' favorite spots with a protected harbor and use of the resorts facilities. Our days have been spent walking the 3 mile pristine beach, biking around between showers and generally being lazy. Cabin fever has definitely set in but it looks like we are stuck here for at least a few more days.
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
Northbound thru the Eastern Family Islands
Mon & Tues, May 13th-14th
Fernandez Bay-Cat Island
We work our way north with a short sail to the sandy cove off the small resort called Fernandez Bay. Fast wifi allowed us to call(skype) the girls and catch up on all the news. On Tues afternoon we were joined by another sailboat Dreamtime, the first we've seen in days and it happens they were a group of medical people from near our northern home (Saranac Lake). We met later in the resorts lounge and enjoyed an evening of live music and drinks from the self serve honor system bar.
Wed-Thurs, Bennetts Harbor
After settling up our bar tab we made a stop at Smith Bay for water and a few veggies then enjoyed a great sail under reefed sails to anchor off of Bennetts Harbor. Walked around town and enjoyed a few beers at a little roadside stand called Yannies.
Fri, Half Moon Cay
Another great sailing day as we made our way west to Little San Salvador (aka Half moon Cay). Caught a number of fish along the way keeping only one large Jack as our freezer is already full of fish. Spent the afternoon on the beautiful beach along with a little snorkeling. This Island is owned by the Carnival Cruise line and is a day stop for many ships. Thankfully we had the place as our private resort but a ship is due in early morning so we weren't allowed to anchor in the preferred spot and spent a rolly night with swells rocking us to sleep(or not!).
Sat, Plum Creek Eleuthra
Off early as a cruise ship disembarked hoards of beachgoers via large tenders. Decided that another night of rolling around was out of the question so we sailed north for Eleuthra. A great sail with some fun fishing. While bringing a small fish alongside I noticed it's tail was gone and right behind it was a big Mahi. Let the line out and watched as the Mahi grabbed the fish and took off. Unfortunately it was a quick fight as he got off but was exciting to watch in these christal clear waters. Anchored in shallow Plum Creek and explored the creeks upper reaches by dingy.
Sun, Bush Cay, Exuma
Another change of plans as we are due for some stormy weather in a couple of days and have been having noises from out engines transmission that have had me concerned. The area we are traveling is very remote with no marine services. Our normal track would have taken us north thru Eleuthra but the we would have to pass thru Current Cut which as it's name implies is a narrow channel with very swift currents. Not something I wanted to attempt without a reliable engine. Thus we decided to cross west to northern Exuma and then head north thru an easier passage.
After an exhilarating sail across the 30 miles of Exuma Sound with large rolling seas on our stern we anchored in the lee of tiny Bush Cay. We knew we were in for a bouncy night as the island didn't give us much protection from the seas but the only good anchorage would have taken us 6 mi out of our way to the south.
Mon thru Wed, Spanish Wells, Eleuthra
Anchor up at 7 and off sailing north under reefed main and small jib. Covered the 50 miles in record time keeping our speed over 6.5 kts all day. A little unnerving in one section as we dodged coral heads then passed thru a 5 mile stretch of 6 ft deep water over pure white sand. A rising tide and having passed thru this area previous years probably gave me undeserved confidence. Arrived in Spanish Wells by 3 pm and picked up a mooring planning to ride out the upcoming storms in this protected harbor. Hoped to find a mechanic to look at our gearbox here but after a walk to the supposed Yanmar dealer (pinders garage) I was discouraged by what I found.
Tue- With fast wifi I was able to find a lot of info on our gearbox and it appears a slipping clutch caused by glazing is a common problem. I pulled the gearbox, and after draining and inspecting the spotless internals as far as I could go without a gearpuller I found I could adjust the foreward clutch engagement slightly. Back together and seems better but to stormy today to take out for trials.
Wed- Thunder storms with torrential rains all night and most of the day have us holed up in the boat. This is the first real heavy rain this trip and I collected water to fill our tanks.
Fernandez Bay-Cat Island
We work our way north with a short sail to the sandy cove off the small resort called Fernandez Bay. Fast wifi allowed us to call(skype) the girls and catch up on all the news. On Tues afternoon we were joined by another sailboat Dreamtime, the first we've seen in days and it happens they were a group of medical people from near our northern home (Saranac Lake). We met later in the resorts lounge and enjoyed an evening of live music and drinks from the self serve honor system bar.
Wed-Thurs, Bennetts Harbor
After settling up our bar tab we made a stop at Smith Bay for water and a few veggies then enjoyed a great sail under reefed sails to anchor off of Bennetts Harbor. Walked around town and enjoyed a few beers at a little roadside stand called Yannies.
Fri, Half Moon Cay
Another great sailing day as we made our way west to Little San Salvador (aka Half moon Cay). Caught a number of fish along the way keeping only one large Jack as our freezer is already full of fish. Spent the afternoon on the beautiful beach along with a little snorkeling. This Island is owned by the Carnival Cruise line and is a day stop for many ships. Thankfully we had the place as our private resort but a ship is due in early morning so we weren't allowed to anchor in the preferred spot and spent a rolly night with swells rocking us to sleep(or not!).
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| dolphins escorting us into Half Moon Bay |
Sat, Plum Creek Eleuthra
Off early as a cruise ship disembarked hoards of beachgoers via large tenders. Decided that another night of rolling around was out of the question so we sailed north for Eleuthra. A great sail with some fun fishing. While bringing a small fish alongside I noticed it's tail was gone and right behind it was a big Mahi. Let the line out and watched as the Mahi grabbed the fish and took off. Unfortunately it was a quick fight as he got off but was exciting to watch in these christal clear waters. Anchored in shallow Plum Creek and explored the creeks upper reaches by dingy.
Sun, Bush Cay, Exuma
Another change of plans as we are due for some stormy weather in a couple of days and have been having noises from out engines transmission that have had me concerned. The area we are traveling is very remote with no marine services. Our normal track would have taken us north thru Eleuthra but the we would have to pass thru Current Cut which as it's name implies is a narrow channel with very swift currents. Not something I wanted to attempt without a reliable engine. Thus we decided to cross west to northern Exuma and then head north thru an easier passage.
After an exhilarating sail across the 30 miles of Exuma Sound with large rolling seas on our stern we anchored in the lee of tiny Bush Cay. We knew we were in for a bouncy night as the island didn't give us much protection from the seas but the only good anchorage would have taken us 6 mi out of our way to the south.
Mon thru Wed, Spanish Wells, Eleuthra
Anchor up at 7 and off sailing north under reefed main and small jib. Covered the 50 miles in record time keeping our speed over 6.5 kts all day. A little unnerving in one section as we dodged coral heads then passed thru a 5 mile stretch of 6 ft deep water over pure white sand. A rising tide and having passed thru this area previous years probably gave me undeserved confidence. Arrived in Spanish Wells by 3 pm and picked up a mooring planning to ride out the upcoming storms in this protected harbor. Hoped to find a mechanic to look at our gearbox here but after a walk to the supposed Yanmar dealer (pinders garage) I was discouraged by what I found.
Tue- With fast wifi I was able to find a lot of info on our gearbox and it appears a slipping clutch caused by glazing is a common problem. I pulled the gearbox, and after draining and inspecting the spotless internals as far as I could go without a gearpuller I found I could adjust the foreward clutch engagement slightly. Back together and seems better but to stormy today to take out for trials.
Wed- Thunder storms with torrential rains all night and most of the day have us holed up in the boat. This is the first real heavy rain this trip and I collected water to fill our tanks.
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| Spanish Wells Harbor
Thurs- Royal Island
With the weather expected to improve by tomorrow we move to the anchorage at Royal to be ready to cross to Abacoe. Still a few storms around but a much nicer day. Transmission seems ok at least for the 6 mile run here.
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Thursday, May 9, 2013
On to new horizons
Sun, May 5th-Long Island
Decided it was time to move on and get back to the quieter spots we have become accustomed to. Civilization is great for a while but not why we are cruising. Our plan was to head south to explore southern Long Island and the Jumentos but like all plans we tend to adjust with the weather. For the shortest route south we need to pass thru the Hog Cay Cut and this has to be done at high tide even with our shallow draft. Had hoped to anchor and wait out the tide while exploring the area but it was to rough for comfort and decided to continue on to Thompsons Bay, Long Island. Anchored by 3 pm and had a quiet evening.
Conception I
Mon-Conception Island
Motor sailed north then east into the open ocean and made landfall at Conception by 5 pm. With the wind direction we chose to anchor on the beautiful east side but were exposed to a swell that made for a rolly night. Had planned to spend a couple of days here but as usual changed plans.
Tues- Rum Cay
We have wanted to visit Rum Cay on previous trips but the weather had always kept us away. With light winds from a favorable direction predicted we set out under sail and made landfall by mid afternoon. The marina at Rum has been closed for a few years due to Hurricane damage but we heard that you could still tie up at their docks as long as you could make it in the shallow channel. Having bright sun overhead and a rising tide we carefully made our way in among numerous coral heads and were welcomed at the docks by the owners. Bobby and Grow made us feel at home and recommended a few of the nearby reefs for snorkeling. Later a neighbor Tyler cruising from Fl on a 25 ft Oday offered us a fillet from a nice Grouper he had just speared and invited us to join a few others for a great fish fry in the clubhouse. We had thawed the last of our lobster tails and added 6 tails to the feast. Even though the marina is closed the owners still welcome the use of the facilities and only charge for the normal extras (showers,ice,water, garbage, wifi) but no dock fees(no electric). In it's heyday this must have been a hopping place as a mecca for divers and sportfisherman. Hopefully the owner Bobby can return it to its previous glory and we wish him all the best.
Wed-Thurs
After a very warm and buggy night with no breeze we were off for more snorkeling while the seas were calm. Biked both days on the few roads in this quiet paridise visiting another huge failed resort, the great ocean beaches, and the abandonded salt works that were the livelyhood of the island in colonial days. There are very few cars and only a few atvs which made the biking a joy. The nights are still buggy but judicious use of screens and a bit more breeze has made it bearable.That evening we invited Tyler aboard for another meal of grilled grouper and still had enough left to freeze.
Sat evening we were included in a pot luck attended by about 20 boaters. A local fisherman supplied a huge Mahi and our contribution was a big batch of conk fritters and smoked sailfish spread. A big thunderstorm blew thru as we partied and we were happy to be in the protected harbor.
Fri and Sat- Conception Island West
Time to move on while the winds are fair and we sailed back to Conception Island this time anchoring in the west bay. Conception is totally undeveloped as it is part of the Bahamas National Park. Chris has decided that this is her newest favorite spot but with no services (water) and limited protection is only visited in settled weather. Spent our days on the pristine beaches and exploring the extensive system of creeks and tidal flats inland. Numerous nurse sharks, hundreds of sea turtles, birds and conk abound in these shallow waters. Since we plan on traveling on Mon we celebrated mothers day and Chris was Queen for the day. I pulled the last of our stone crab claws from the freezer and we had a feast that included a berry tart I baked from our home canned stores.
Sun- Cat Island
With a cold front predicted on Mon we move on to better protection on Cat Island. A great sail across the open ocean waters brought us into the Bight in southern Cat to anchor in the gin clear waters by 4pm. Brought in a great Mahi as we neared landfall and it put up a real fight leaping skyward at least 6 times. It was followed in by another smaller mahi that was bright blue. The colors of these fish are amazing but fade within minutes of landing them. Chris did a great job handling the boat and gaffing the fish. Since we were under full sail running wing on wing with the jib poled out there was no easy way for her to slow the boat. Once again the freezer is full and we had another great meal.
Decided it was time to move on and get back to the quieter spots we have become accustomed to. Civilization is great for a while but not why we are cruising. Our plan was to head south to explore southern Long Island and the Jumentos but like all plans we tend to adjust with the weather. For the shortest route south we need to pass thru the Hog Cay Cut and this has to be done at high tide even with our shallow draft. Had hoped to anchor and wait out the tide while exploring the area but it was to rough for comfort and decided to continue on to Thompsons Bay, Long Island. Anchored by 3 pm and had a quiet evening.
Conception I
Mon-Conception Island
Motor sailed north then east into the open ocean and made landfall at Conception by 5 pm. With the wind direction we chose to anchor on the beautiful east side but were exposed to a swell that made for a rolly night. Had planned to spend a couple of days here but as usual changed plans.
Tues- Rum Cay
We have wanted to visit Rum Cay on previous trips but the weather had always kept us away. With light winds from a favorable direction predicted we set out under sail and made landfall by mid afternoon. The marina at Rum has been closed for a few years due to Hurricane damage but we heard that you could still tie up at their docks as long as you could make it in the shallow channel. Having bright sun overhead and a rising tide we carefully made our way in among numerous coral heads and were welcomed at the docks by the owners. Bobby and Grow made us feel at home and recommended a few of the nearby reefs for snorkeling. Later a neighbor Tyler cruising from Fl on a 25 ft Oday offered us a fillet from a nice Grouper he had just speared and invited us to join a few others for a great fish fry in the clubhouse. We had thawed the last of our lobster tails and added 6 tails to the feast. Even though the marina is closed the owners still welcome the use of the facilities and only charge for the normal extras (showers,ice,water, garbage, wifi) but no dock fees(no electric). In it's heyday this must have been a hopping place as a mecca for divers and sportfisherman. Hopefully the owner Bobby can return it to its previous glory and we wish him all the best.
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| diorama from abandoned resort |
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| Failed marina excavated in limestone |
Wed-Thurs
After a very warm and buggy night with no breeze we were off for more snorkeling while the seas were calm. Biked both days on the few roads in this quiet paridise visiting another huge failed resort, the great ocean beaches, and the abandonded salt works that were the livelyhood of the island in colonial days. There are very few cars and only a few atvs which made the biking a joy. The nights are still buggy but judicious use of screens and a bit more breeze has made it bearable.That evening we invited Tyler aboard for another meal of grilled grouper and still had enough left to freeze.
Sat evening we were included in a pot luck attended by about 20 boaters. A local fisherman supplied a huge Mahi and our contribution was a big batch of conk fritters and smoked sailfish spread. A big thunderstorm blew thru as we partied and we were happy to be in the protected harbor.
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| Boaters pot luck in marina clubhouse |
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| awaiting a meal |
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| crazy kids teasing the resident sharks |
Fri and Sat- Conception Island West
Time to move on while the winds are fair and we sailed back to Conception Island this time anchoring in the west bay. Conception is totally undeveloped as it is part of the Bahamas National Park. Chris has decided that this is her newest favorite spot but with no services (water) and limited protection is only visited in settled weather. Spent our days on the pristine beaches and exploring the extensive system of creeks and tidal flats inland. Numerous nurse sharks, hundreds of sea turtles, birds and conk abound in these shallow waters. Since we plan on traveling on Mon we celebrated mothers day and Chris was Queen for the day. I pulled the last of our stone crab claws from the freezer and we had a feast that included a berry tart I baked from our home canned stores.
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| tidal flats-up creek on Conception Is |
Sun- Cat Island
With a cold front predicted on Mon we move on to better protection on Cat Island. A great sail across the open ocean waters brought us into the Bight in southern Cat to anchor in the gin clear waters by 4pm. Brought in a great Mahi as we neared landfall and it put up a real fight leaping skyward at least 6 times. It was followed in by another smaller mahi that was bright blue. The colors of these fish are amazing but fade within minutes of landing them. Chris did a great job handling the boat and gaffing the fish. Since we were under full sail running wing on wing with the jib poled out there was no easy way for her to slow the boat. Once again the freezer is full and we had another great meal.
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| Mothers day fishing expedition |
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| a banner conk catch- Chris made me stop at 15 saying "remember how long it takes to clean them" |
Friday, May 3, 2013
Georgetown, Great Exuma 2013
South to Georgetown, Great Exuma
April 22nd- Little Farmers Cay
Decided that if we are to make Georgetown in time for regatta we need to move on. Motor south into wind and chop only getting to Little Farmers. Picked up mooring and bought a dozen cleaned conk from locals for $24.
Tues April 23rd- Lee Stocking Island
The research center at Lee Stocking has been a favorite stop and on a sad note we found it abandoned and being looted by the locals. From the extensive facilities it appears that in its day this was a bustling operation. We picked up a mooring in the harbor and spent the afternoon exploring the abandoned grounds. A visit from Jeff and Sue on a neighboring boat bearing a gift of a couple meals of fresh Mahi topped off a pleasant day.
Wed-on to Georgetown
With winds from a favorable nne direction we head outside to move south in the open ocean waters. A rough exit thru Rat Cay cut turned into a sporty sail under reefed main and jib. Exciting fishing thru the day first bringing a big bull mahi(also known as dorado or dolphin fish) alongside only to loose it trying to set the gaff. Next brought a long battle with what turned out to be a 6ft 8in billfish. Not sure if it is a sword or sailfish but since it was dead by the time we got it in we kept it. Normally these fish are released unharmed so we felt bad keeping such a prized sportfish. Soon after followed another mahi, not nearly as big as the first but at least we got this one aboard. The great part of this battle was seeing at least 3 other Mahi follow our catch right to the boat. I had read about this but to actually see these colorful fish in the crystal clear waters was fantastic.
Prior to anchoring at Monument beach among the crowd of other cruisers we stopped outside the anchorage to clean our catch so as not to attract sharks inside the anchorage. Since we now have more fish than we can possibly freeze a dingy ride around to our new neighbors passing out gifts of fresh fish was greeted with enthusiasm and many thanks.
Family Islands Race Week
Thurs thru Sun
The races at Georgetown attract over 50 traditional Bahamian sloops from all around the Bahamas. Four days of racing in 4 classes along with major partying ashore late into each evening makes for a fun filled week.
The dingy ride to town is a long wet ride with the strong winds each day but on Thurs we braved the trip to shop for much needed veggies and enjoy watching a few races while imbibing in a few local beers.
Fri once again brought brisk winds and exciting sailing. We dingyed to the windward mark along with numerous spectator boats both large and tiny where we were close to the action. Later we spent the evening on the beach enjoying music supplied by local cruisers.
Saturday once again brought sunny skies with a brisk wind. We joined a group of about 50 cruisers for a water taxi ride across the harbor to enjoy the final evening of festivities. The Bahamians really know how to party with thousands jamming the waterfront of this tiny town. The final race of the series was run in 20 kt winds and was followed by a parade and concert by the Royal Nassau Police Band. This was quite a sight with the members dancing in the street decked out in their finery which included leopard skins for the drum corps.
The rest of the week has found us wandering about exploring the island, biking on the mainland, doing housekeeping chores-hauling water and fuel, groceries and propane. A dingy raft up for cocktails and appetizers on Mon. was great fun with about 20 boats drifting thru the anchorage. By Thurs many of the cruisers have left for both points north and also a group heading south to summer below the hurricane belt.
Thurs evening we had friends Rick and Carla from Euphoria over for cocktails then headed in to Peace and Plenty resort for barbecue and a band around the pool.
Friday- Sat
More great weather, took advantage of wifi, Rick & Carla stopped and had cocktails late afternoon. On Sat we rented a car together and toured the islands of Great and Little Exuma and Barratare. Big lunch at Da-spot in Barratare. Topped off the evening with cocktails aboard Euphoria.
April 22nd- Little Farmers Cay
Decided that if we are to make Georgetown in time for regatta we need to move on. Motor south into wind and chop only getting to Little Farmers. Picked up mooring and bought a dozen cleaned conk from locals for $24.
Tues April 23rd- Lee Stocking Island
The research center at Lee Stocking has been a favorite stop and on a sad note we found it abandoned and being looted by the locals. From the extensive facilities it appears that in its day this was a bustling operation. We picked up a mooring in the harbor and spent the afternoon exploring the abandoned grounds. A visit from Jeff and Sue on a neighboring boat bearing a gift of a couple meals of fresh Mahi topped off a pleasant day.
Wed-on to Georgetown
With winds from a favorable nne direction we head outside to move south in the open ocean waters. A rough exit thru Rat Cay cut turned into a sporty sail under reefed main and jib. Exciting fishing thru the day first bringing a big bull mahi(also known as dorado or dolphin fish) alongside only to loose it trying to set the gaff. Next brought a long battle with what turned out to be a 6ft 8in billfish. Not sure if it is a sword or sailfish but since it was dead by the time we got it in we kept it. Normally these fish are released unharmed so we felt bad keeping such a prized sportfish. Soon after followed another mahi, not nearly as big as the first but at least we got this one aboard. The great part of this battle was seeing at least 3 other Mahi follow our catch right to the boat. I had read about this but to actually see these colorful fish in the crystal clear waters was fantastic.
Prior to anchoring at Monument beach among the crowd of other cruisers we stopped outside the anchorage to clean our catch so as not to attract sharks inside the anchorage. Since we now have more fish than we can possibly freeze a dingy ride around to our new neighbors passing out gifts of fresh fish was greeted with enthusiasm and many thanks.
My greatest catch yet
Family Islands Race Week
Thurs thru Sun
The races at Georgetown attract over 50 traditional Bahamian sloops from all around the Bahamas. Four days of racing in 4 classes along with major partying ashore late into each evening makes for a fun filled week.
The dingy ride to town is a long wet ride with the strong winds each day but on Thurs we braved the trip to shop for much needed veggies and enjoy watching a few races while imbibing in a few local beers.
Fri once again brought brisk winds and exciting sailing. We dingyed to the windward mark along with numerous spectator boats both large and tiny where we were close to the action. Later we spent the evening on the beach enjoying music supplied by local cruisers.
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| dueling A class racers |
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| Beach party |
Saturday once again brought sunny skies with a brisk wind. We joined a group of about 50 cruisers for a water taxi ride across the harbor to enjoy the final evening of festivities. The Bahamians really know how to party with thousands jamming the waterfront of this tiny town. The final race of the series was run in 20 kt winds and was followed by a parade and concert by the Royal Nassau Police Band. This was quite a sight with the members dancing in the street decked out in their finery which included leopard skins for the drum corps.
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| Nassau police band-dancing in the street |
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| Island freighter taking a load of racers home |
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| Class A boats at the final finish |
The rest of the week has found us wandering about exploring the island, biking on the mainland, doing housekeeping chores-hauling water and fuel, groceries and propane. A dingy raft up for cocktails and appetizers on Mon. was great fun with about 20 boats drifting thru the anchorage. By Thurs many of the cruisers have left for both points north and also a group heading south to summer below the hurricane belt.
Thurs evening we had friends Rick and Carla from Euphoria over for cocktails then headed in to Peace and Plenty resort for barbecue and a band around the pool.
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| Another perfect beach- stocking Island, ocean side |
Friday- Sat
More great weather, took advantage of wifi, Rick & Carla stopped and had cocktails late afternoon. On Sat we rented a car together and toured the islands of Great and Little Exuma and Barratare. Big lunch at Da-spot in Barratare. Topped off the evening with cocktails aboard Euphoria.
Sunday, April 21, 2013
West to the Exumas
South Eleuthra-
4-8 Ten Bay
Brisk East winds are again calling us to move on. Great sailing under reefed main and jib but no waves as we are in the lee of the island. Caught a tunny (bonito-released) and a nice Spanish Mackerel. Dinner of homemade pizza on the grill aboard Blue Wing with Duwan and Greg. Greg entertained us into the evening playing his ukealalee and singing.
4-9 thru 4-12 Rock Sound
Another great sail south once again under reefed sails making 6-7 kts. Caught 2 big barracudas (released) and a nice hog snapper that made 2 great meals.
The next few days brought big winds so we find ourselves exploring the island, shopping for fresh veggies and propane and hiking to the ocean beach. Cocktails with Dave and Joanne from Tropical Breeze on each others boats a couple of nights.
From here we have to decide whether to continue south along the eastern Islands or cross west to the Exumas. We will let the winds and seas make this decision as we have no set schedule.
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| tonites dinner |
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| look at the size of those teeth! |
West to the Exumas
4-13 & 14 Wardrick Wells
The Southeast trade winds have calmed to about 15 kts and are predicted to drop further during the day. With the dinghy tied down on deck we head out at 7AM for Powell Point. Caught a nice yellowtail snapper as we exited the sound. Entering the open ocean 2 hours later the winds and seas are making for a wet sporty sail. We make good time even though we are pointing higher than is comfortable. By about 2 PM the seas have finally settled down so that at least it’s a drier ride. Had 2 big fish on and fought each for a good time before losing them. One broke 60 lb test line when my drag messed up and the other gave a good fight before getting loose. It’s difficult to slow the boat when sailing in big winds and seas so bringing in a big fish is a real challenge. Chris doesn’t like being at the helm in these conditions but relents when we have a fish on.
Arrived at Exuma Park Headquarters by 4 PM where we had called ahead to reserve a mooring. Every surface was crusted with dried salt spray but cleaning up will wait till morning as a swim and cocktails were called for.
Saturday evening the park ranger hosts a boaters pot luck at the pavilion on the beach. These get togethers are great as we get to actually connect faces to the voices we hear on the radio and also swap stories and info on the places visited.
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| Beach Party -Exuma park |
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| Placing our boats name on cairn atop Bobo hill- 4th year |
Sun 4-13
Another beautiful day in one of our favorite spots. A climb up Bo-Bo hill to retrieve our boat sign so I could carve this years date adding to the previous 3 years. Tradition calls for each visiting boat to place their boat name on a piece of driftwood atop the hill and some of these signs have been updated for over 10 years.
At sunset while enjoying a steak dinner in the cockpit I tossed a piece of fat over the side and the water erupted with fish. 2 small lemon sharks along with numerous other fish both small and large fought over our scraps. Guess no swim tonite!
Aerial view of moorings at park headquarters
Monday 4-14
O’Briens Cay
With a rising tide, lite winds and bright sun we decided to explore some of the channels that wind among the nearby islands. I am always amazed at how we can read the water depths in this clear water with sandy bottom. This is a beautiful area but as they say the water is skinny, so not a place to explore with a falling tide. By early afternoon we picked up another park mooring and went snorkeling at the Sea Aquarium. Fantastic coral and fish but a fast current made for a short stay.
4-16 thru 21st
Pipe Cay
Once again we found ourselves exploring new areas as we motor among the many islands. At Pipe Cay we tied up for the night on the seawall at the abandoned US Govt’s Radar installation. Having passed by on previous trips and seeing boats tied up we assumed it was a private island. We found this to be such a wonderful place that we have called it our own private Island for the past 5 nights. Great beaches, shallow bays filled with turtles and a few small sharks and a protected harbor all made for a peaceful stay. Sat we were joined by 2 big cats from Toronto. Both were around 40 ft and we managed to squeeze all 3 of us along the seawall. I think they felt bad for invading our privacy so they invited us for dinner. We had a nice evening celebrating my birthday with our new Canadien friends. Chris had baked a blueberry pie(wild berries from home) to top off the party.
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| relaxing on our private island |
Black Point
Since we havn't had wifi in a week we move south to the aanchorage on Great Guana Cay. Caught a barracuda (To big to keep) along the way but the bad part of the journey was I broke my starboard genoa winch. apparently a screw came loose and a brass gear cracked under the strain. Since these winchs are nearly 30 years old I can't imagine parts being avail. I would like to be able to repair it since replacements are at least $1000 each and are used in pairs. Will try to figure out how to rig one of the other winches so we can still use the jib. To top off the day our charger for the laptop bit the dust. Thankfully we bought a car adapter before leaving so we can still charge with 12volts. At least we finally have fast wifi on the boat and were able to catch up on bills and skype the girls.
Wednesday, March 27, 2013
Moving south
Thurs- March 21-Allens-Pensacola Cay
The day dawned sunny with a brisk north wind and we headed south under reefed sails moving along at 6-7 knots. Great fishing with 2 macarell, a jack and 2 barracuda we released. Made the anchorage at Allens-Pensacola at 5pm and spent a quiet night. During the run south we broke 4 sailslides on the main, this is after breaking 2 a few days back. Apparently they have reached their lifespan being nearly 30 years old. A friend from previous years- Reggie on Adrenaline was the only other boat in the anchorage and he happened to have 4 used slides to give us. Will be looking to replace the rest.
Fri-Treasure Cay
Another clear day with the winds still north. Decided to continue south and get thru Whale passage before the wind and waves built again tomorrow. Sail all day wit a little help from the engine and made Treasure Cay at 3pm. Another fun fishing day with a mackerel and a big jack that was great on the grill for dinner. Made a big pot of chowder with the Mackerel as we are out of freezer space.
Sat thru Mon
Another front has us hunkered down in this well protected anchorage along with 25 other boats. The resort here charges $10 per day to anchor and use all their amenities and this along with a great beach makes it one of Chris' favorite spots.
Tues- Man-O-War Cay
Skies have cleared and winds calmed to 18 kts so we ran south under reefed sails to the great harbor at Man o war. No anchoring in this harbor as it is filled with moorings. Picked up a mooring as the wind protection from the north is non existent nearby. In to the only sailmaker in the Bahamas where we were able to pick up some spare slides. Wander about this well kept village then on to a pot luck ashore that was attended by at least 40 boaters. We were entertained by an informal group of boaters playing 4 guitars, a mandolin, a fiddle and drums for a fun evening.
Marsh Harbor
March 27th
Off to Marsh Harbor under reefed sails with a brisk north wind. Picked up a few fresh veggies at the supermarket and an extra spare primary fuel filter at NAPA. Marsh Harbor is a small city where you can find most items a boater needs. Prices here are also much better than the islands further south.
Thurs-March 28
Little Harbor
Sunny but still cool north winds. The Bronze foundry at Johnsons art gallery was doing a pour at 1pm so having never seen this we headed out early to try to make the harbor in time. Missed the first pour but thankfully the had a second a few hours later. They use the age old lost wax process and this is quite a site to see.
The day dawned sunny with a brisk north wind and we headed south under reefed sails moving along at 6-7 knots. Great fishing with 2 macarell, a jack and 2 barracuda we released. Made the anchorage at Allens-Pensacola at 5pm and spent a quiet night. During the run south we broke 4 sailslides on the main, this is after breaking 2 a few days back. Apparently they have reached their lifespan being nearly 30 years old. A friend from previous years- Reggie on Adrenaline was the only other boat in the anchorage and he happened to have 4 used slides to give us. Will be looking to replace the rest.
Fri-Treasure Cay
Another clear day with the winds still north. Decided to continue south and get thru Whale passage before the wind and waves built again tomorrow. Sail all day wit a little help from the engine and made Treasure Cay at 3pm. Another fun fishing day with a mackerel and a big jack that was great on the grill for dinner. Made a big pot of chowder with the Mackerel as we are out of freezer space.
Sat thru Mon
Another front has us hunkered down in this well protected anchorage along with 25 other boats. The resort here charges $10 per day to anchor and use all their amenities and this along with a great beach makes it one of Chris' favorite spots.
Tues- Man-O-War Cay
Skies have cleared and winds calmed to 18 kts so we ran south under reefed sails to the great harbor at Man o war. No anchoring in this harbor as it is filled with moorings. Picked up a mooring as the wind protection from the north is non existent nearby. In to the only sailmaker in the Bahamas where we were able to pick up some spare slides. Wander about this well kept village then on to a pot luck ashore that was attended by at least 40 boaters. We were entertained by an informal group of boaters playing 4 guitars, a mandolin, a fiddle and drums for a fun evening.
Marsh Harbor
March 27th
Off to Marsh Harbor under reefed sails with a brisk north wind. Picked up a few fresh veggies at the supermarket and an extra spare primary fuel filter at NAPA. Marsh Harbor is a small city where you can find most items a boater needs. Prices here are also much better than the islands further south.
Thurs-March 28
Little Harbor
Sunny but still cool north winds. The Bronze foundry at Johnsons art gallery was doing a pour at 1pm so having never seen this we headed out early to try to make the harbor in time. Missed the first pour but thankfully the had a second a few hours later. They use the age old lost wax process and this is quite a site to see.
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| Hot work |
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| Breaking away the plaster mold |
Tuesday, March 19, 2013
Back on the water
March 2013
After having spent the summer enjoying our home and camp in NY's Adirondacks and a great winter in Florida we are finally back in the Bahamas for a few months.
Fri-Sat, March 16th- finally looks like we have a weather window to cross the gulf stream. Chris has been busy provisioning the boat while I have been finishing up a remodel/addition job for our friends Tom and Patty Amell. We have completed a few projects on Apres Ski over the winter and been out for some great daysails. Before launching this Oct we stripped the bottom and keel and applied new bottom paint. The addition of a new battery bank consisting of 4- 6 volt golf cart batteries, a link battery monitor and a 3rd solar panel will hopefully improve our electric situation but since I bought a small portable freezer we will most likely be still running the engine regularly . The canvas enclosure I made last year had to be completely redone, the material I used didn't hold up in the tropical sun and the seller replaced it but the labor involved in resewing everything was a big job.
Spent our first day on the water motoring south to Lake Worth where we will head out when the seas and wind cooperate. Had engine problems on the trip down and had to change both fuel filters. Spent much of the day Sat pumping out the bottom of the fuel tank and was able to separate a quart of water and a quart of gunk(algae) from the fuel. Added biobar to fuel and hope this is the last of the fuel problems. Moved late afternoon to anchor close to the inlet for an early morning departure.
Sun- Anchor up at 4am and motoring east in an easy ocean swell. Wind is lite but right on the nose. Able to maintain over 6 knots all day and even got to sail a few hours when the wind veered a little to the south. Crossed onto the shallow water of the Bahama bank at 1pm finally catching a small yellowtail, the only fish in over 7 hours of trolling 2 lines. Anchored for the night at Mangrove Cay at 5 PM in time for cocktails and a beautiful sunset. We have been in radio contact all day with sailing friends aboard Stardust and Incommunicado. It's comforting to know that even though we aren't traveling as "buddy boats" that in an emergency we have friends we can contact. Both boats left after us but they decided to continued on another 3 hours to Great Sale Cay. We felt that since we never sleep well the night before a crossing that an early night is called for after 13 hours on the water.
Mon- A lazy morning led to a late start heading for Great Sale, Winds piped up to 18kts and we flew along a 6-7 kts for hours. Upon arrival at the anchorage decided the protection would be poor if the predicted cold front arrived earlier than expected . headed north to one of our favorite stops- Grand Cay where we were at anchor by 5PM . A trip in to the docks provided us with 6 lobster tails and 6 conk from a local diver for $20. We managed to gorge ourselves on the lobster for dinner but saved the conk for another night. The predicted wind shift came at 3 AM and we were glad to be in a protected harbor.
Tues- A quiet day working on projects and cleaning up. Customs came to us on the boat at 5 PM and we cleared in easily. One surprise was that the cruising permit fee increased from $150 to $300 and they charged a $30 overtime fee. Cracked conk for dinner along with fresh baked brownies for later. Since lobster season ends this month stopped at a local boat and bought $20 worth of tails. What a deal for 18 tails. Trying to make room in freezer is the problem. Wish we could always have such dilemas.
After having spent the summer enjoying our home and camp in NY's Adirondacks and a great winter in Florida we are finally back in the Bahamas for a few months.
Fri-Sat, March 16th- finally looks like we have a weather window to cross the gulf stream. Chris has been busy provisioning the boat while I have been finishing up a remodel/addition job for our friends Tom and Patty Amell. We have completed a few projects on Apres Ski over the winter and been out for some great daysails. Before launching this Oct we stripped the bottom and keel and applied new bottom paint. The addition of a new battery bank consisting of 4- 6 volt golf cart batteries, a link battery monitor and a 3rd solar panel will hopefully improve our electric situation but since I bought a small portable freezer we will most likely be still running the engine regularly . The canvas enclosure I made last year had to be completely redone, the material I used didn't hold up in the tropical sun and the seller replaced it but the labor involved in resewing everything was a big job.
Spent our first day on the water motoring south to Lake Worth where we will head out when the seas and wind cooperate. Had engine problems on the trip down and had to change both fuel filters. Spent much of the day Sat pumping out the bottom of the fuel tank and was able to separate a quart of water and a quart of gunk(algae) from the fuel. Added biobar to fuel and hope this is the last of the fuel problems. Moved late afternoon to anchor close to the inlet for an early morning departure.
Sun- Anchor up at 4am and motoring east in an easy ocean swell. Wind is lite but right on the nose. Able to maintain over 6 knots all day and even got to sail a few hours when the wind veered a little to the south. Crossed onto the shallow water of the Bahama bank at 1pm finally catching a small yellowtail, the only fish in over 7 hours of trolling 2 lines. Anchored for the night at Mangrove Cay at 5 PM in time for cocktails and a beautiful sunset. We have been in radio contact all day with sailing friends aboard Stardust and Incommunicado. It's comforting to know that even though we aren't traveling as "buddy boats" that in an emergency we have friends we can contact. Both boats left after us but they decided to continued on another 3 hours to Great Sale Cay. We felt that since we never sleep well the night before a crossing that an early night is called for after 13 hours on the water.
Mon- A lazy morning led to a late start heading for Great Sale, Winds piped up to 18kts and we flew along a 6-7 kts for hours. Upon arrival at the anchorage decided the protection would be poor if the predicted cold front arrived earlier than expected . headed north to one of our favorite stops- Grand Cay where we were at anchor by 5PM . A trip in to the docks provided us with 6 lobster tails and 6 conk from a local diver for $20. We managed to gorge ourselves on the lobster for dinner but saved the conk for another night. The predicted wind shift came at 3 AM and we were glad to be in a protected harbor.
Tues- A quiet day working on projects and cleaning up. Customs came to us on the boat at 5 PM and we cleared in easily. One surprise was that the cruising permit fee increased from $150 to $300 and they charged a $30 overtime fee. Cracked conk for dinner along with fresh baked brownies for later. Since lobster season ends this month stopped at a local boat and bought $20 worth of tails. What a deal for 18 tails. Trying to make room in freezer is the problem. Wish we could always have such dilemas.
Lobster tails for the freezer
Ocean side beach- Grand Cay
Wed-After Spent a great afternoon exploring the oceanside beach. Cold front expected overnite with big winds so we decided to move into the dock. We have been in here during big blows and the holding is poor in grassy bottom. Glad we were at the dock as the storm was fierce and a boat upwind from our spot dragged across the harbor. Always seems to happen in the dark of night.
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