Bahamas Bound
Wed 4AM- The weather looks promising to cross the gulf stream and we were out of the harbor by 4:30. The plan was to head to West End but that was not in the cards with this wind. Unlike in the anchorage where we had a south wind, the wind on the ocean was SE and right on the nose. We decided to motor on and without sails it was a very uncomfortable ride. By changing our course for Memory Rock we were able to hoist the main and steady the motion of the waves.
Dolphins, whales and flying Fish
As we approached the Bahama Bank we were entertained by numerous dolphins, amazing schools of flying fish traveling at least 100 feet thru the air and numerous sitings of huge whales we have yet to identify coming straight up out of the water and crashing down with a tremendous splash. We tried getting close for a better look but to no avail.
On the bank
Crossing onto the bank we left behind the deep blue 2000 ft deep waters and are now in calm 10-15 foot deep aquamarine waters that are “gin clear”. We anchored for the night at sunset off of Mangrove Cay and spent a very peaceful night.
Thursday- Winds weren’t favorable to head to Great Sale Cay so we decided to head to Walkers Cay to clear customs. As we approached the entrance channel the winds had built to 20 kts and the prospect of entering a long shallow channel at low tide led to another change of plans. We proceeded to change course for nearby Grand Cay where we anchored in its protected harbor. Gale winds and driving rain had us up much of the night resetting anchors in the poor holding. We were relieved to have the winds back down to 20 kt by dawn but heavy rains persist. A very trying couple of days for the crew of the little ship Andros. Hopefully things will improve from here.
Fri- Heavy rain all day, winds clocking around from all directions had us on anchor watch much of the day and thru the night. To wet to think about going ashore.
Sat- Another storm with gale winds at 6 am had us re-anchoring again. Later in the day after winds had dropped to 20kts marina suggested we pick up mooring rather than trying to get into dock. If we had realized it was there(just had a fender for a float) we would have picked it up sooner. Walked around tiny village after drying out boat in the welcome sunshine. Beers at Rosies (almost everything in town is owned by Rosie- Rest/bar, marina, cottages, fish processing, grocery). We bought fresh bread at local bakery.
Sun- Took water taxi (driven by customs officer) to Walkers Cay to clear customs. Exciting 4 mile ride in open fishing boat at 30mph. Winds still howling about 20 but sunny. Walkers was a fancy resort that was abandoned after hurricane Floyd and still sits idle. The airstrip is still in use but the resort is abandoned. Our friends in Tupper Lake will find it interesting that this group of islands was owned by Robert Abplanalph and was used as a vacation retreat by President Nixon, as was The Abplanalph camp on Big Tupper. Apparently the family still owns the Islands but makes little use of the beautiful estate. Spent afternoon wandering about Grand Cay followed by a great dinner at Rosies (local cracked conk and Grouper)
Mon-Sunny and still windy, one fishing boat went out but all others still at docks. To town to try for wifi, Stopped at school where principal offered the use of his office and computer during lunch, then later Phone Co manager offered the use of his home wifi. Am amazed at how friendly evreyone is. We were the only visitors (read the only whites) on the island. Apparently by next month the place will be crowded with fisherman from the states.
South to the Sea of Abaco
Tues- The winds have finally calmed down and we headed south at daybreak. Motor sailed the 55 nm to Manjack Cay where we are anchored along with 12 other sailboats. The islands owners supply free wifi and welcome use of the extensive trails and ocean beaches.
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