Moving South

nicely making way

While riding out big winds in Marsh Harbor we spent a couple of days wandering around town, filling our diesel at $4.70/gal and water at .22/gal(best price around, marina charges .45/gal.) and also picking up a couple of pounds each of frozen lobster meat(no shell)$14.50/lb and conch $7.25/lb at the local seafood warehouse. Once the winds eased up we had a great sail south to anchor behind Tavern Cay. Had fellow cruisers from S/V Vindaloo over for happy hour where I (Kevin) cooked up a batch of Conch fritters. The air is still a little cool but we stay toasty inside our greenhouse. 

      Each morning in the Abacoes a group of locals host a radio program called the cruisers net where they read the weather report, share info on local happenings along with many business getting their pitch. Boaters can call in with questions and announcements and this morning a boater was organizing a cook out on the beach at mostly uninhabited Lynard Cay. Since this is where we were planning to stage for our next crossing we sailed down under brisk winds. 

Apres Ski at anchor

cook out on Lynard Cay

 That evening we enjoyed a great happy hour and cook out with a  gathering of about 18 cruisers at this beautiful protected spot just a short walk from the raging ocean. The air was cool but warmer days are ahead.

pristine beach, Lynard Cay

 As we wait for the winds and seas to abate we enjoyed swimming in the cristal clear waters and wandering the beaches and oceanside trails.  By Monday morning the weather has eased and we head out in the company of 7 other boats to cross the N E Providence channel to Eleuthera. Winds were light and we mostly  motorsailed for the 10 hour trip. Many boaters are making their way north and took advantage of the favorable weather and we crossed paths with at least 15 boats. This time of year their is a mass exodous of live aboard boaters who have spent the winter further south with many Canadien vessels heading to the Great Lakes for the summer.

Eleuthera
    Our favorite protected anchorage when we enter this area is the totally enclosed harbor inside Royal Island. With another blow coming in a couple of days we come in early to be assured of a prime spot. Spent the day Tuesday hiking on the island with a  morning of snorkeling at the ruins of an old harbor on the north side followed by a picnic lunch. Fish were plentiful but my camera skills failed me as most pictures came out very colorless. 

lionfish(invasive)

ruins of a krall(corall) cut into the limstone to hold lobster or possibly turtles

waiting for bar service?

Royal Island ruins

      As predicted the winds have built and we have been joined by 14 boats also seeking shelter. We plan on staying put for at least a couple of days before moving on to Spanish Wells and pionts south.
One good thing about being holed up is that Chris takes time to bake, brownies, muffins and bread. No wonder we gain weight while sailing.

 

Back to the Bahamas 2019

After hearing from many of our friends that they were disappointed at my not keeping up with our blog last year I will try to do better this trip.

On March first we left Lake Worth inlet (Palm Beach) at 3:30 AM with calm seas and a star filled sky. I always have trouble sleeping the night before heading out and as usual I was awake and ready to go much earlier but in deference to Chris held off.  Our trip across was uneventful and we were a motorboat for 14 hours finally anchoring at tiny uninhabited Mangrove Cay for a peaceful night. The second day was much of the same with very little wind but at least the fishing improved, 3 jacks(keepers) and 4 barracuda with 3 being to big to keep. We only eat small Barracuda- under 30 inches as the larger ones can build up a toxin hazardous to us mortals. The fishing kept the trip exciting and after 8 hours we dropped anchor for another peaceful night in a protected cove on uninhabited Allens-Pensacola island.

another 40 inch barracuda

our private oceanside beach

Chris enjoying the pristine waters

signing tree

With another beautiful day on Sunday we decided to spend some time at the calm oceanside beach starting with a long hike followed by Bloody Marys and some time in the chrystal clear waters. That evening brought an end to our calm weather and we were joined by 7 other boats all having made the crossing on Saturday. During the night I was awakened by the sounds of a 50 ft motoryacht that had dragged by very close and was now aground just off our stern on a falling tide. I spent most of the night on watch as they tried in vain to get free which finally happened at high tide near daybreak. Apparently no damage was done which was surprising since they had engines roaring for hours churning up sand.  

The next 2 days are what makes sailors forget all the boring days spent motoring. Sailing south under reefed sails we made great time stopping at Green Turtle Cay to clear customs then on to a perfect protected anchorage for a quiet nite. These cruising grounds make for excellent sailing as the protected sea of Abaco is enclosed by Great Abaco to the west and numerous barrier islands on the ocean side.

 Off early to catch the high tide so we could take a shortcut thru a shallow area called  Don’t Rock passage for another exciting sail anchoring by noon at Marsh Harbor where we will wait out the upcoming stormy weather. This small city is called the hub of the Abacos and it boasts a commercial harbor leading to a  protected pleasure boat harbor with currently about 50 anchored boats in addition to 3 marinas and 2 large sailboat charter operations.  We normally only spend time here to provision or hide from weather.

 As we entered the channel the 250 ft freighter Duke of Topsail was anchored near the entrance and we soon discovered that the 250 ft freighter Inagua Spirit was aground and listing  in the channel blocking the entrance. Thankfully we bypassed this to enter our anchorage. It will be interesting to watch if the next tide re-floats this ship(2 high tides later she is now free with the help of a few tugs).

The expected cold front arrived during the night with big winds but little rain, we plan on spending another day here waiting out the winds and plan a lunch in town today.

Since leaving Jensen Beach last Thursday we have covered 208 nm (240 miles) and consumed 17 gal of fuel. Has been our easiest first week out of the past 8 years.

island hopping north thru Exuma

Thurs- Fri, May 4^th

BARRATERRE

   Heading north out of the Georgetown area under light wind we motor sail as we try to keep up our speed for fishing. After 20 nm and no fish we head into Rat Cay cut where we stop for lunch and a swim. We are expecting strong south and west winds over the next few days so we decide that since we are on a rising tide and with sunny skies to try the shallow route to anchor at Barraterre. Much of the Exumas consist of very shallow sand banks that move with the current as the tide flows between the shallow bank side to the deep ocean on the sound side. As long as the sun is overhead reading the water depth is fairly easy. We find a spot just in front of town to anchor in 6 ft of water with great protection. A walk around this tiny town provided us with a a bag of local tomatoes and a stop at the local bar for refreshments.  Late day we stopped a local boat and were able to buy cleaned conch at 5 for $10, not worth hunting and cleaning at that price.

LEE STOCKING ISLAND

Sat thru Mon

  As the wind veered to the east and built our anchorage became uncomfortable so we headed north to one of our favorite stops at the abandoned Carribean research center. Spent our days wandering the island enjoying the beautiful oceanside beaches. The first evening we stopped to visit a sportfish anchored next to us and were rewarded with a gift of 5 lbs of Mahi fillets. A great dinner plus plenty for the freezer.

  On Mon we took a dingy ride to explore the salt pond on Normans Pond Cay. Had a productive day harvesting 23 big conch. On our return I was reminded why it is easier to buy them after spending hours cleaning and skinning them. Had a feast that evening and still froze many meals.

 

outlet of salt pond at low tide

          

RUDDER CAY

Moving north we exit Adderly cut with the wind opposing the current and had a hairy ride for a bit as we buried the bow into about 5 sets of standing waves. By the time we realized how big these seas were it was to late to turn back safely but once we entered open water the seas calmed nicely. Sailing north I lost a nice Mahi after getting it alongside but landed a big Barracuda that was to big to keep. Stayed outside sailing back and forth past the cut we wanted to wait for slack tide.  This proved to be a good move and we entered Cave Cut with much smoother seas.

Dingeyed around checking out the man made cave(Germans hid U-boats here) and snorkeling on a site where the Islands owners (supposedly David Copperfield) have placed a mermaid at a piano.

             

 

mermaid at piano(stock photo)

BIG FARMERS CAY

Another gunkholing expedition led us into an anchorage we have always bypassed due to shallow sandbars. Anchored in 6 ft off a great beach where we spent the afternoon exploring a stream filled with small conch, rays and turtles.

BLACK POINT

Another beautiful day has us sailing north under full sail making great time. Anchored off of the village of Black Point where we were able to get rid of our trash(always a problem) fill our water and have lunch at Lorraines Cafe. In the morning we hiked to a blow hole on the ocean side but weren’t impressed as the ocean was nearly calm and the tide was out. We are told this is one of the most impressive blow holes in the Bahamas, maybe next trip.

 

Black Point blowhole(stock photo)

SANDY CAY

Another great sail took us north with plans to stop at Staniel Cay for gas and diesel but it turned out they were out of both so we sailed on and tucked in to a small group of islands once again in about 6 ft of water. As we worked our way thru the shallows caught a nice mutton snapper that we devoured for dinner. Spent the afternoon on a perfect tiny beach that Chris now adds to her list of favorite beaches.

 

another great beach

EXUMA NATIONAL PARK

CAMBRIDGE CAY-BELL ISLAND

Moving along north we sail with just the jib working our way thru the windy channel to anchor in a cove off of bell Island. We are expecting west winds and the anchorages for protection are very limited. Bell Island is one of the many private islands in Exuma National Park and the owners made their wishes for privacy known with many signs along with 2 large dogs patrolling the beach. Even though all beaches in the Bahamas are public up to the high water mark we didn’t press our luck with the dogs by venturing ashore.  

HOG CAY-PIRATES LAIR

I have always wanted to venture into this anchorage but it requires entering from the ocean with calm seas or transiting an intricate channel thru many small islands. We decided to try the channel as the tide was high and soon realized this should have been accomplished at slack tide. The gps made following the channel a breeze but currents flowing off the bank were fierce pulling at us as we negotiated the narrow cuts thru the islands.  We had reserved a mooring via radio thru the park service since their are only 5 moorings available and anchoring would be tricky as the current flows at a good clip with the tide.

This narrow anchorage was supposedly a hideout for pirates and we hiked to the spot where they had a camp and well. At low slack tide we explored a cave that connects the harbor with the ocean. Enjoyed an afternoon on the beach with 2 couples journeying south both seeing this area for the first time.

Our second nite brought severe squalls with heavy rain and winds to 50kts but we felt quite safe in this protected harbor. The only problem was that after the storm quieted down and the  tidal current flowing at about 3 kts the boat couldn’t decide to lay with the tide or the wind. Until about midnight when the tide switched we had to put up with the mooring ball being dragged back and forth under the bow. I hate to see what this did to our bottom paint.

    

cave at Hog Cay

WARDRICK WELLS

Tues and Wed

     We awake to clear skies and much calmer seas and decide to exit this crazy anchorage before the seas build and trap us here. A short sail up the coast to the inlet at Wardrick Wells Park where we have reserved a mooring for the next couple of days as more squally weather is expected. Drinks (homebrew) aboard Irish Eyes with Bill and Adair whom we have met at many of our stops, and yes they really do make homebrew on their 34 ft boat and it was great. Our second night we had them over for my special conch fritters and cocktails. A couple of hikes and a trip up BoBo hill to replace our updated boat sign made for a relaxing stay.

Apres Ski at Wardrich Wells mooring

   

replacing our sign-BOBO Hill

HAWKSBILL CAY

    Keeping with our island hopping theme we move all of 16nm up the chain to anchor at Hawksbill Cay. Great sailing with 18 kt winds under just the jib until we were hit by a squall with heavy rain but we managed to get our cockpit enclosure sealed up in time to stay dry. Skies cleared by afternoon and we hiked to the ocean side but seas were wild so it was back to our protected beach.

three sea turtles kept us entertained- this one is about 24in long

SHROUD CAY

Another short sail with big winds finds us in the protected north end of Shroud Cay. The center of this island is nearly all mangrove swamp with tidal streams flowing thru. We dingy thru to the ocean side but decide to spend the afternoon at a tiny beach close to the boat.

our private beach -Shroud Cay

HIGHBORNE CAY

Winds are still howling but the seas are reasonable in the lee of the islands as we fly under jib only to anchor for lunch at Normans Cay. We met friends here and had lunch at the resort. If we hadn’t already committed we probably wouldn’t have stayed for the $25 burgers and $7 beers. A nice lunch but certainly not our kind of place.

After lunch we continued our journey north to anchor off of Highborne Cay to prepare to cross back to Eleuthra.

South to Exuma

Crossing to Exuma-April 18th
     
WARDRICK WELLS

      We have been waiting for a break in the high winds/big seas to make the crossing to the Exumas and it appears that things have calmed enough to head out. We would like a little quieter seas but after this winds are expected to pick up again. The day started out great as we head thru the shallow waters leaving Rock Sound Harbor and approach Cape Eleuthra we caught a nice grouper.  Leaving the protected waters and heading offshore we quickly realize that it's going to be a rolly ride.  The wind is pushing us along at a good clip with a reefed main and partial jib but steering is a chore as the seas build. Fishing is productive as we hooked 2 nice mahi but only landed the first.  I always seem to have a problem getting the fish into the boat once they are alongside, especially since Chris can't leave the helm and we're flying along at 7 kts. Arrived at Exuma park  in Wardrick Wells where we picked up a mooring for the nite. After a quick swim we noticed a few nurse sharks swimming by and a neighboring boat was even trying to get pictures of their teenagers swimming with them. Seemed crazy to me!
  
                                                                             

do I really want to swim with these guys?

     


PIPE CAY

     After a morning hike up BO BO hill to pick up our boat sign (tradition is for each visiting boat to leave a plaque with their boat's info atop this hill) so I can add this years date.  We plan to replace the sign on our return back north. We decide to push south into the wind and after a short time realize this was a bad chouce. Pushed on pounding into a steep chop to a protected bay on Pipe Cay.

 STANIEL CAY

     After a morning hike and some productive conch hunting (found 3, enough for dinner) we head south taking advantage of stiff east winds to sail with a reefed jib. Anchor near town to pick up a few groceries (very expensive and limited) and some gas and diesel. Just to give you some idea of prices Chris bought a cabbage and a dozen eggs without asking the price and paid $9.00. On the other hand fuel was reasonable (for the Bahamas) at $4.30/gal for diesel and $5.25 for gas. Moved to the bay off Big Majors to anchor for the night. As a treat for my birthday Chris baked a wild blueberry pie from berries canned this past summer.

LITTLE FARMERS CAY

     We are determined to make Georgetown for the Family Islands Regatta so we are pushing on while the weather allows.  With winds still brisk we sailed south under just a full jib with a lunch stop at the beach at White Point. Anchored mid afternoon off of Little Farmers where we went ashore for a walk.

DARBY ISLAND- Sat and Sun April 22-23

     Motor south to find protection from the winds that are veering from the south. Very limited spots in this area to hide from south winds but after a few tries we were able to get the anchor to set in the hard bottom as there is a strong current that scours the bottom. I set the anchor alarm just to be safe in case we drag during the nite. The anchor alarm uses GPS to warn us if we move more than a set distance. This island was supposedly owned by a German sympathizer during WWII and has a dredged channel where German Uboats were re-provisioned under cover of darkness. While exploring the shoreline we came across a trail leading to an overgrown airstrip with remains of a crashed small plane.

 

abandonded castle Darby Island

                                        

man made cave where German U-boats were  hidden during WWII

GEORGETOWN

     By Mon morning the wind has veered to the west making our anchorage rather uncomfortable so we decide to take advantage of the wind and head south out into the open waters of Exuma Sound for the 35 nm trip to Georgetown. Had a great sail under a reefed main and full jib averaging over 6 knots. Anchored off of town with plans to do chores before the crowds arrive later this week in the company of dozens of boats. Invited fellow travelers on Kachina and Will-o-wind aboard for sunset cocktails.

Tues-Wed

Busy days with grocery shopping, hauling water, 4 loads of laundry, liquor store and a haircut for Chris.  As the crowds arrive from all points in the islands with their traditional Bahamian sloops either in tow or stacked aboard freighters for 5 days of partying and racing  we decide that it’s time to move across the harbor and get away from the loud music. 

 

B class boat leaving harbor

anchorage from monument hill, Apres Ski on far left, racers in harbor

class A boat preparing for race

   

STOCKING ISLAND

Thurs thru Wed April 27^th - May 3^rd

Still in Georgetown Harbor we have moved to Monument Beach on Stocking Island to be away from the craziness of regatta and have protection from the east winds that are again blowing around 20 kts.  The only problem with this is that the water is to rough to cross the mile to town by dingy.  In the company of many other cruising sailors we manage to join sundown parties on the beach quite a few nights. Hikes on the many trails and days spent at the oceanside beaches fill our days. Other years we have taken the water taxi across to town for the closing ceremonies but decide on a beach bonfire party instead.

Having spent a week here we decide to move on, our tentative plan was to head south to the Jumentos but this remote area calls for settled weather which is not predicted so we decide to move back north to explore more of the Exumas. A trip to town to fill propane, trade books at the library, pick up fresh veggies and lunch at the old Peace and Plenty hotel filled our day.  As we point our bow back north we have covered 670 statute miles on the gps and have been out a little over 2 months.

as close as we get to rock climbing- monument hill

Happy hour- monument beach