May 28th-Current Island, Eleuthra
With all the inclement weather we have been experiencing of late we decided a change of plan was in order. We have wanted to make our return trip take us thru the Berries then across to Bimini but this weather has us returning to Fl by our usual route. An early start has us motorsailing north thru the 40 miles of shallow coral studded waters to Current Island. This is best done in good light and calm seas to make it easier to dodge the coral heads that abound. Caught 2 big Barracuda that we released but no keepers. As we approach Fleming Channel the engine overheat alarm sounds and Chris takes the helm under sail only while I find the problem. A clogged cooling water filter solved the problem for a while but also found intake thru hull partially clogged with weeds after overheating a couple more times. Spent a quiet night at anchor off of Current settlement.
May 29th-Royal Island
Sail north to Spanish Wells for fuel and a few fresh Veggies the on to Royal Island to be ready to head north across the Providence Channel at first light.
May 30th- on to Abacoe-Lynyard Cay
Off at 6:30 to cross the 55 miles of open ocean to Little Harbor cut. No wind has us motoring and right away the engine overheats. After many tries messing around replacing the water pump and checking water flow thru the system finally found some blockage in intake thru-hull that must have been reducing water flow enough to only cause problems at higher engine loads. Would run fine at speeds under 5 kts but I wanted to keep up our speed for this long crossing to enter the reef in daylight. The highlight of the trip was hooking a huge Dolphin(Mahi) on and foughting it for quite a few jumps before it broke my line after stripping nearly all the line off the reel. Even after our engine problems we were still anchored by 5:30 for a quiet night.
Thursday, May 31, 2012
Monday, May 28, 2012
East to the Exumas
Georgetown, Exuma
May 12th-16th
With the wind at our backs we set sail for Georgetown. The weather is predicted to turn nasty soon so we are heading for a protected anchorage. Large seas and strong wind on our stern made for a long trip as I had to be steering the boat thru each wave. Was a little nerveracking entering the harbor thru north channel rocks with the seas running but anchored in calm water off Sand Dollar Beach in the lee of Elizabeth Island by mid afternoon.
Spent Mothers Day hiking and hanging out on the beach. The next few days were spent anchored off of town so we could take care of chores- laundry, propane and shopping as we tried to avoid the worst of the rain.
May 16th-Lee Stocking Island
Motorsailed in light winds to the marine research center where we wandered about the mostly deserted facilities. Hiked the island and spent time on the beach.
May 17th- Musha Cay
Spent the morning exploring Normans Cay by dingy as the mosquitoes chased us off the island. Made our way to Musha Cay fishing along the way. Quiet beautiful anchorage but visits ashore to this exclusive resort are not permitted.
May 19-20th- Little Farmers Cay
Showers thru the day as we motor to Little Farmers. Coctails aboard with crew of Lamaru. Wander about town where all was quiet on Sunday afternoon.
May 21st- Big Majors Cay
Motorsailed north to piggy beach where there were 20 boats (half huge Yachts) anchored. Rainy afternoon with two big storms keeping us on watch much of the night. A few big boats dragging anchor made for an exciting time for some of our neighbors. Thankfully all was fine around us.
May 22-25th- Wardrick Wells
With more stormy weather predicted we decided to move to the protected moorings at the Exuma Park HQ. Windy and showers much of the time but we got to trade a bag of books at the office library. Hike up Boo Boo hill to fetch our boat sign so I could carve our new name and date. Most visiting boats leave a driftwood sigh on this hilltop cairn to mark their visits to this wonderful place. Drinks aboard with young newlyweds Dave and Janae from Wave Dancer. They were married during their extended cruise while in Little Harbor, Abacoe.
May 26th-Hawksbill Cay
Sunny skies finally found us sailing north to Hawksbill Cay where we enjoyed the beautiful beach. After all the rain we have been having the bugs are fierce and we try to anchor a decent distance from the mangroves but still must be sure to have the screens in well before dusk.
May 27th- Allens Cay
Sail north trying to keep ahead of building storms. Anchor in the protected harbor with 5 other boats. We set 2 anchors as the tide rushes thru and there is very little swinging room. Protected iguanas call this uninhabited island home and draw many visitors here.
May 12th-16th
With the wind at our backs we set sail for Georgetown. The weather is predicted to turn nasty soon so we are heading for a protected anchorage. Large seas and strong wind on our stern made for a long trip as I had to be steering the boat thru each wave. Was a little nerveracking entering the harbor thru north channel rocks with the seas running but anchored in calm water off Sand Dollar Beach in the lee of Elizabeth Island by mid afternoon.
Spent Mothers Day hiking and hanging out on the beach. The next few days were spent anchored off of town so we could take care of chores- laundry, propane and shopping as we tried to avoid the worst of the rain.
May 16th-Lee Stocking Island
Motorsailed in light winds to the marine research center where we wandered about the mostly deserted facilities. Hiked the island and spent time on the beach.
May 17th- Musha Cay
Spent the morning exploring Normans Cay by dingy as the mosquitoes chased us off the island. Made our way to Musha Cay fishing along the way. Quiet beautiful anchorage but visits ashore to this exclusive resort are not permitted.
May 19-20th- Little Farmers Cay
Showers thru the day as we motor to Little Farmers. Coctails aboard with crew of Lamaru. Wander about town where all was quiet on Sunday afternoon.
May 21st- Big Majors Cay
Motorsailed north to piggy beach where there were 20 boats (half huge Yachts) anchored. Rainy afternoon with two big storms keeping us on watch much of the night. A few big boats dragging anchor made for an exciting time for some of our neighbors. Thankfully all was fine around us.
May 22-25th- Wardrick Wells
With more stormy weather predicted we decided to move to the protected moorings at the Exuma Park HQ. Windy and showers much of the time but we got to trade a bag of books at the office library. Hike up Boo Boo hill to fetch our boat sign so I could carve our new name and date. Most visiting boats leave a driftwood sigh on this hilltop cairn to mark their visits to this wonderful place. Drinks aboard with young newlyweds Dave and Janae from Wave Dancer. They were married during their extended cruise while in Little Harbor, Abacoe.
May 26th-Hawksbill Cay
Sunny skies finally found us sailing north to Hawksbill Cay where we enjoyed the beautiful beach. After all the rain we have been having the bugs are fierce and we try to anchor a decent distance from the mangroves but still must be sure to have the screens in well before dusk.
May 27th- Allens Cay
Sail north trying to keep ahead of building storms. Anchor in the protected harbor with 5 other boats. We set 2 anchors as the tide rushes thru and there is very little swinging room. Protected iguanas call this uninhabited island home and draw many visitors here.
Saturday, May 12, 2012
South in the wake of Columbus
May 2nd -3rd
After sitting out the past 6 days of storms and rain in Governors Harbor we are finally rewarded with sunny and breezy weather for a sail to Rock Sound. Enjoyed wandering around town and exploring a group of caves and a blue hole that were close by.
May 4th
With settled weather predicted for the next week we decided to modify our plan to cross to the Exumas and instead continue south and east to explore the more remote islands of the far Bahamas. Most of the anchorages we will be visiting offer very limited protection from any winds other than the prevailing trades so good weather is essential for visiting this area. After a pleasant sail managing to catch a small Barracuda for our dinner, our final anchorage on the southern end of Eleuthera is off of Plum Creek. Spent time exploring another fine beach and another beautiful sunset.
Little San Salvador
May 5th
Off early in light winds motorsailing to Half moon bay on Little SanSalvadore. A cruise ship was anchored in the protected cove that serves as a day stop for some of the cruise lines but they left by late afternoon and we had the beautiful spot to ourselves for a quiet walk on the beach.
Cat Island
May 6th-7th
Calm winds finds us motoring south all day to Fernandez Bay. The upside was the fishing was great bringing in a large Grouper, 1 large and 3 small Jacks, and a Barracuda we released. We now have plenty of fish in the freezer. Spoke with friends aboard Glennis via radio that were in the anchorage on the southern tip of the island off of Port Howe. We had heard that passage thru the reef into this anchorage was hazardous as the gps charts were incorrect so we hadn't planned on attempting it but after Glennis gave us coordinates to enter the reef we decided to join them.. On Monday we motored south catching and releasing 3 large Barracuda along the way. Entrance thru the reef in calm seas and bright sun was very simple but the chartplotter would have had us on the reef. This is one of the few times that the electronic charts have been inaccurate and we are told that the 2012 version has been corrected. Enjoyed sunset cocktails with Janice and Greg then spent a rolly night as the ocean swells pass over the reef.
Conception Island
May 8th-9th
Motoring in flat seas we pass Columbus Point and cross open ocean to make landfall at Conception Island. The crescent shaped anchorage boasts a beautiful beach unspoiled by human habitation. The island is part of the national park system and is a no take zone. Known for its gin clear water, sea turtle habitat, flocks of Tropicbirds, magnificent reefs and beaches it is described as the crown jewel of the Bahamas by the cruising guides. Time spent snorkeling and exploring the miles of creeks passed much to quickly but the fair weather is predicted to end and with no protected anchorage we must move on
Long Island
May 10th-11th
With strong breezes from the southwest we had an exciting sail covering the 20 nm before rounding Cape Santa Maria and its Columbus monument atop the cliffs. The best part of the day was when both reels started screaming at once each with a Dolphin(Mahi) on. I managed to loose the first after a few jumps but brought the second along side only to lose it trying to gaff it from the pitching deck. It was an exciting time as Chris got to handle the second rod for quite a while. These fish display brilliant colors and put in quite a show leaping straight out of the water numerous times. Also released a large Barracuda that put up quite a fight. Anchored in one of our favorite spots off Hog Cay where we spent our time walking the beach, snorkeling and exploring the miles of shallow mangrove creeks. Sunset cocktails aboard Maholo with Tom and Delwin who we had met snorkeling at Conception.
After sitting out the past 6 days of storms and rain in Governors Harbor we are finally rewarded with sunny and breezy weather for a sail to Rock Sound. Enjoyed wandering around town and exploring a group of caves and a blue hole that were close by.
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| Caves at Rock Sound |
May 4th
With settled weather predicted for the next week we decided to modify our plan to cross to the Exumas and instead continue south and east to explore the more remote islands of the far Bahamas. Most of the anchorages we will be visiting offer very limited protection from any winds other than the prevailing trades so good weather is essential for visiting this area. After a pleasant sail managing to catch a small Barracuda for our dinner, our final anchorage on the southern end of Eleuthera is off of Plum Creek. Spent time exploring another fine beach and another beautiful sunset.
Little San Salvador
May 5th
Off early in light winds motorsailing to Half moon bay on Little SanSalvadore. A cruise ship was anchored in the protected cove that serves as a day stop for some of the cruise lines but they left by late afternoon and we had the beautiful spot to ourselves for a quiet walk on the beach.
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| Just a few of the days catch-best fishing yet! |
Cat Island
May 6th-7th
Calm winds finds us motoring south all day to Fernandez Bay. The upside was the fishing was great bringing in a large Grouper, 1 large and 3 small Jacks, and a Barracuda we released. We now have plenty of fish in the freezer. Spoke with friends aboard Glennis via radio that were in the anchorage on the southern tip of the island off of Port Howe. We had heard that passage thru the reef into this anchorage was hazardous as the gps charts were incorrect so we hadn't planned on attempting it but after Glennis gave us coordinates to enter the reef we decided to join them.. On Monday we motored south catching and releasing 3 large Barracuda along the way. Entrance thru the reef in calm seas and bright sun was very simple but the chartplotter would have had us on the reef. This is one of the few times that the electronic charts have been inaccurate and we are told that the 2012 version has been corrected. Enjoyed sunset cocktails with Janice and Greg then spent a rolly night as the ocean swells pass over the reef.
Conception Island
May 8th-9th
Motoring in flat seas we pass Columbus Point and cross open ocean to make landfall at Conception Island. The crescent shaped anchorage boasts a beautiful beach unspoiled by human habitation. The island is part of the national park system and is a no take zone. Known for its gin clear water, sea turtle habitat, flocks of Tropicbirds, magnificent reefs and beaches it is described as the crown jewel of the Bahamas by the cruising guides. Time spent snorkeling and exploring the miles of creeks passed much to quickly but the fair weather is predicted to end and with no protected anchorage we must move on
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| another perfect beach- Conception Island |
Long Island
May 10th-11th
With strong breezes from the southwest we had an exciting sail covering the 20 nm before rounding Cape Santa Maria and its Columbus monument atop the cliffs. The best part of the day was when both reels started screaming at once each with a Dolphin(Mahi) on. I managed to loose the first after a few jumps but brought the second along side only to lose it trying to gaff it from the pitching deck. It was an exciting time as Chris got to handle the second rod for quite a while. These fish display brilliant colors and put in quite a show leaping straight out of the water numerous times. Also released a large Barracuda that put up quite a fight. Anchored in one of our favorite spots off Hog Cay where we spent our time walking the beach, snorkeling and exploring the miles of shallow mangrove creeks. Sunset cocktails aboard Maholo with Tom and Delwin who we had met snorkeling at Conception.
Sunday, April 29, 2012
Northern Eleuthera
April 18th- Dawn brings clear skies and lighter winds and we can see that the seas have calmed in the Little Harbor cut so its anchor up and off south under full sail. Winds are a little more on the nose than we had hoped for but light enough that we keep our speed up by adding the iron genny (motor) any time our speed drops below 5.5 kts. We need to cover 55 miles of open ocean before dark and are also passing thru a busy shipping lane. Hooked a nice dolphin (Mahi) around noon and had an exciting time bringing it alongside. Unfortunately we failed to get it into the boat as has happened many times before. The sailboat is not set up for gaffing a big fish as we have so much stuff in the way at the stern and Chris is a little leery of hanging over the rail as we roll in the swells. Hooked into another big fish later but got just a look at it as it leaped high and got loose before I even had the drag set. Picked up mooring in the protected harbor at Royal Island in time for cocktail hour and spent a quiet evening along with 14 other boats. Nearly all the boat traffic is heading north at this time of year and most of these boats will head out over the next 2 days as the wind swings south.
April 19th thru 23rd- Two days of fine weather has us relaxing wandering about the island, snorkeling and generally lazing about. A storm front passed thru Sat night with gusts over 50 kts and heavy rain. Gale winds persisted thru monday when they finally died down to 20 kts and we were able to spend the day hiking the island. We were glad to be on one of the private hurricane moorings and not have to worry about dragging anchor. Many boats have come into the harbor to ride out the storm and a few had to reanchor as they dragged in the storms.
April 24th- Off in the morning to Spanish Wells for propane and fresh veggies. Picked up a mooring in this crowded harbor as the seas are still rough to anchor outside. Stopped at the boaters book exchange during happy hour and enjoyed the company of Jean and Tom who are from RI but own a home here and welcome boaters to visit their library and trade books. They keep their trawler in the harbor and have made the trip to RI for the past 29 years. After so much nasty weather we were in need of fresh reading material.
April 25th- Sail south thru Current Cut (one of my most dreaded spots with 3.5 kts of current and shifting shoals as you exit) then motor sail into the wind to Hatchet Bay. Picked up a free mooring and dingeyed in to buy stone crab claws from the local crabber. A bottle of cheap rum ($6) and $20 cash and we had a bag of 20 large claws fresh off the boat. We have decided that these are even better than lobster and stuffed ourselves for 2 nights dinners.
April 26th thru -Motor sail south to Governors Harbor where we plan to wait out more stormy weather expected over the next few days. Pick up the only mooring where we will be secure for the next few days. Many boaters dont trust these govt moorings but over the years I have dove on any that we use and found that most have monster chain and huge concrete blocks. You usually have to supply your own mooring line as most are pretty ratty. The holding for anchoring in many of these harbors is tenacious at best with a bottom of either grass or marl(limestone) so we feel more secure on a mooring. Caught a nice Barracuda on the way and made chowder from the carcass and froze a few dinners.
Fri- Hike out to the beautiful ocean beach(pink sand- one of our favorites) where we explored the abandoned Club Med Resort. Was a huge operation apparently in the 70's before being wiped out by a hurricane.
Sat- Threat of rain all day kept our exploring close to the boat. Light rain all night with heavy rain and expected winds on Sunday kept us aboard. The good thing is that I can fill our water tanks with our rain collection system. Unlike most of the Bahamas good water can be had for free in most of Eleuthra but has to be hauled from shore in jugs. Water in Abacoe is mostly RO (reverse osmoses) water and usually costs about 20 cents/gal. We carry 70 gals of water in our tanks and can usually make this last quite a while by washing dishes using salt water whenever we are in clean water. I have added sea water faucets at both sinks for this purpose.
April 19th thru 23rd- Two days of fine weather has us relaxing wandering about the island, snorkeling and generally lazing about. A storm front passed thru Sat night with gusts over 50 kts and heavy rain. Gale winds persisted thru monday when they finally died down to 20 kts and we were able to spend the day hiking the island. We were glad to be on one of the private hurricane moorings and not have to worry about dragging anchor. Many boats have come into the harbor to ride out the storm and a few had to reanchor as they dragged in the storms.
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| Royal Island ruins, outdoor bar |
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| Snorkeling spot- ruins of pier and harbor |
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| what appears to be a corall(holding pen) possibly for conk or lobster? cut into shoreline at Royal Is ruins. A gated sluceway to the ocean allowed fresh seawater to enter |
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| our protected anchorage in the center of Royal Island |
April 24th- Off in the morning to Spanish Wells for propane and fresh veggies. Picked up a mooring in this crowded harbor as the seas are still rough to anchor outside. Stopped at the boaters book exchange during happy hour and enjoyed the company of Jean and Tom who are from RI but own a home here and welcome boaters to visit their library and trade books. They keep their trawler in the harbor and have made the trip to RI for the past 29 years. After so much nasty weather we were in need of fresh reading material.
April 25th- Sail south thru Current Cut (one of my most dreaded spots with 3.5 kts of current and shifting shoals as you exit) then motor sail into the wind to Hatchet Bay. Picked up a free mooring and dingeyed in to buy stone crab claws from the local crabber. A bottle of cheap rum ($6) and $20 cash and we had a bag of 20 large claws fresh off the boat. We have decided that these are even better than lobster and stuffed ourselves for 2 nights dinners.
April 26th thru -Motor sail south to Governors Harbor where we plan to wait out more stormy weather expected over the next few days. Pick up the only mooring where we will be secure for the next few days. Many boaters dont trust these govt moorings but over the years I have dove on any that we use and found that most have monster chain and huge concrete blocks. You usually have to supply your own mooring line as most are pretty ratty. The holding for anchoring in many of these harbors is tenacious at best with a bottom of either grass or marl(limestone) so we feel more secure on a mooring. Caught a nice Barracuda on the way and made chowder from the carcass and froze a few dinners.
Fri- Hike out to the beautiful ocean beach(pink sand- one of our favorites) where we explored the abandoned Club Med Resort. Was a huge operation apparently in the 70's before being wiped out by a hurricane.
Sat- Threat of rain all day kept our exploring close to the boat. Light rain all night with heavy rain and expected winds on Sunday kept us aboard. The good thing is that I can fill our water tanks with our rain collection system. Unlike most of the Bahamas good water can be had for free in most of Eleuthra but has to be hauled from shore in jugs. Water in Abacoe is mostly RO (reverse osmoses) water and usually costs about 20 cents/gal. We carry 70 gals of water in our tanks and can usually make this last quite a while by washing dishes using salt water whenever we are in clean water. I have added sea water faucets at both sinks for this purpose.
Wandering about the Sea of Abaco
March 31st thru April 2nd-Spent the past 3 days in Black Sound on Green Turtle on Donnies mooring. We biked around the island, spent time at the great beaches and enjoyed having our friends from Stardust for happy hour.
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| Another beautiful sunset |
April 4th thru 7th- Sailed to the protected anchorage at Treasure Cay as stormy weather is predicted over the next few days. This is one of Chris' favorite anchorages as they have a great beach and for a small fee you can use the resorts pool, showers and wifi. Happy hour aboard Dual Dreams Thurs and party aboard Stardust with 10 other boaters on Sat. Spent 2 afternoons at the beach.
Easter, April 8 &9-Winds have setteled down and we sailed to Man-o-War. Anchored in the northern cove where we are seperated from the wild ocean by a 50 ft wide strip of rock. Easter Dinner was a treat of Lobster tails and steak from the freezer. Wandered around town and walked beach.
April 10th- Sail to Hopetown where we anchored outside the harbor. Enjoyed a lunch put on as a fundraiser for the local Bahamian sailing team (Rage).
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| Memorial garden, Hopetown |
April 15th- Weather has cleared and we sailed back to Hopetown where we enjoyed cocktails with friends on Tropical Depression.
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| Anchored off Hopetown |
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| Sandbar at Tahiti Beach |
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| Lifes a beach(Tahiti) |
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Hanging around the northern Abacoes
Double Breasted Cays-March 29th- Calm and sunny, motored the short run to the south anchorage, caught and released 2 small Barracuda along the way. Anchored in narrow channel on south end along with friends Craig and Dianne on Tropical Storm. Very tight entrance and had to back off of sand bar once upon entering. (Chris was on bow reading the water and pointing the way in but once again I failed to listen). Had read much about how pretty these islands were but we really didn't find much to keep us there more than a day. worked scraping barnacles off of port side of keel and scrubbing hull. Much easier job in these gin clear waters. Will get to stbd side anither day. After all we are on Bahamas time mon!
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| Grouper for dinner(and some for the freezer) |
Green Turtle Cay- March 31at thru April 3rd. A brisk wind found us close hauled under reefed sails covering the 30 miles in good time. Picked up a mooring in protected Black sound at our friend Donnies. Spent the next few days exploring the beautiful beaches and biking about the island.
Apres-Ski flying along under reefed sails
Life is good at Green Turtle CayGrand Cay- Mon thru Thurs, March 26th thru 29th
Spending our days wandering about the tiny village, exploring the many backwaters and ocean beaches. Bought more lobster tails for the freezer as the season ends soon. Gathered Whelk from the rocky shoreline as we were told they were a local favorite. They are a snail like mollusk and I tried cooking them like escargot. Well we could have saved a lot of trouble and just cooked shoe leather in garlic and butter. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Winds have been strong so venturing out to the ocean reefs has not been an option.
Cleaning curbs and whelk
The best bargain yet, 12 tails for $20
Chris' never ending search for a new favorite beachMonday, March 26, 2012
Back in the Bahanas
Apres-Ski moored in Grand Cay Harbor
March 12th thru 22nd , 2012, Jensen Beach- Headed out mid day spending our first night just 10 miles from home at Pecks Lake. On Tues morning headed south to North Lake Worth (Palm Beach) where we were surprised to meet up with friends Nancy and Harvey on Stardust. We spent the following week here waiting out the strong east winds and seas that make crossing to the Bahamas rather uncomfortable. Bike rides, days at the beach and a few dinner gatherings helped pass the time.
March 23rd- Looks like we finally have a weather window to cross the Gulf stream so we moved to anchor close to the inlet. Have been waiting for winds from the south and fairly calm seas. The Gulf stream flows north at approx 3 knots and any wind from the north kicks up very steep waves making it hazardous for even big boats. After motoring directly into east winds and waves the past two years we decided to wait for the ideal conditions.
March 24th- Anchor up at 3:30 AM motoring until sunrise dodging 3 large freighters that crossed our path. By Sunrise wind veered south enough for us to set full sail and with the assistance of our little diesel, motor sailed all day anchoring at Mangrove Cay for cocktails and a swim in the gin clear waters by 6:30pm. By far the easiest crossing we have experienced.
Sun-March 25th- With a cold front approaching(the reason for yesterdays south winds) We were off early to find a protected anchorage for the anticipated storms. On our way to Great Sale Cay a few storm cells popped up and we changed course to the north for Grand Cay. Arrived at the protected harbor mid afternoon and picked up a private mooring as from past experience we have found the holding to be poor here. The storm front passed thru late afternoon with big winds and lots of lightening and we were glad to be in a snug harbor.
Mon- Dawned clear and breezey. Ashore to activate our Bahamas cell phone(no luck) and clear customs. On our previous visit in 2010 we had to hire a local small boat to take us to nearby Walkers Cay to clear in. This time customs came to us making the process much easier. Bought 7 small lobster tails and 12 cleaned conch from a local for a total cost of $30. Wish we had some room in the freezer to stock up.
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