Back in the Bahamas-2020

After spending a great summer at home and camp in NY's Adirondacks and a wonderful warm winter in Jensen Beach we are back on the water.

Off to Abacoe- March 12th
    With the boat loaded with provisions for the next 3 months we set off south for Lake Worth inlet under sunny skies and a lite east wind. Conditions were not predicted to be ideal but with no better weather predicted for at least 2 weeks we decided to go. Many have asked us what our track will be this year after much of the Abacoes being decimated by hurricane Dorian. We considered bypassing this  area but as we rarely depend on local services this early in the trip went ahead with our normal route. We were able to bring some supplies for our friend Donnie at Green Turtle and planned on volunteering there on the many rebuilding projects.

Crossing over- woke at 3:30 am preparing to leave when a crash and shouting brought me racing on deck to find a neighboring sailboat against our bow. Thankfully no damage ensued and they didn't get tangled in our anchor chain. I will admit that with the current running at 3 knots it would be easy to miscalculate distances in the dark.
    We were soon off under starry skies motoring into a lumpy sea with lite east winds.  The day continued like this as the headwinds built and the chop became uncomfortable. Finally made Memory Rock at 4:30 where we had lots of fishing action. Once we were transiting the shallow water of the Bahama Bank the seas calmed and we finally dropped anchor at Mangrove Cay at 8:30. A much longer day than usual as we were only able to make 5 knots with the engine running strong. Normally 6.5 is our cruising speed but later found our prop and hull were covered with a collection of barnacles. My bad for not diving on the boat before leaving but the water in our river isn't condusive to swimming. Fuel consumption was double our usual and I was getting concerned that we might have to become an actual sailboat.

Sat morning once again dawned sunny with the expected headwinds so we decided to detour north and visit one of our old haunts of Grand Cay. This is the northernmost island in the Bahamas and in a haven for sportfisherman. Wouldn't you know that the wind died early on and we were once again motoring all day to anchor by 5:30.

Grand Cay
     Having seen utube videos of the destruction to this area we were pleasantly surprised to find the tiny town in much better shape than expected. Docks in the protected harbor were in the process of being rebuilt and many roofs had been replaced. Being rather low on fuel I was concerned to find only gas available at Rosies Marina.  Rosie came to the rescue draining 10 gal out of the towns generator tank. No cell service here yet but a local has set up a satellite link and we were able to use wifi for a  fee of $10 for 2 weeks, it only worked in his yard and that had turned into the locals hang out.

Double Breasted Cay
     After 2 nights at Grand we moved the short sail south to one of my favorite spots in this area. This tiny grouping of islands is rarely visited by cruisers and we enjoyed the tranquility.

Allens-Pensacola
    With a fresh breeze we finally were able to sail south to this protected anchorage and get back to our normal track. We were surprised to find 3 other boats anchored as we  had seen very little boat traffic thus far on our journey. In the morning we hiked to the oceanside beach and found the signing tree still standing and many signs still there. As usual the beach was pristine and we considered staying but the winds were predicted to turn south and we would be here for the next few days with no phone service.

The signing tree survived- Allens Pensacola oceanside

Manjack Cay
    Motoring south once again into a nasty chop all day  we anchored in the protected cove along with about 5 other cruisers. We spent 2 nights here enjoying hikes on the island trails and time on the beaches. Stopped in to see friends Bill and Leslie who have had a homestead here for many years living off grid. Were pleased to see that they had very little damage but were surprised to learn that they rode out the hurricane here. One of the oceanside beaches we visited had amazing piles of timbers, trusses and general lumber piled high into the woods while others were pristine.

Green Turtle Cay  
       Moving south the short hop to our destination it was amazing to see the devastation. Only 6 miles southeast of Manjack this island was stripped of vegetation with destroyed buildings at every turn. Having seen videos from the settlement of New Plymouth we knew what to expect but still found the damage horrible. New buildings as well as old would be destroyed when one next door was untouched. Arriving at Donnies where he had a mooring waiting for us the protected harbor was a mess, Donnie had rebuilt some of his docks and made his home liveable but the rest of the harbor was a jumble of destroyed homes and boats tossed up into the woods. A sad site indeed.

Donnies  post Dorian

Donnies today- left wing removed, new roof, gutted interior

Corona Virus- with restrictions in place much stricter than those in the states construction has come to a standstill and all of the volunteer groups have flown home. Of the few boats at Donnies most were Canadiens who have flown home in fear of the borders closing. We feel quite safe being self isolated on board and have plenty of supplies to keep us for months. Fuel and groceries are in good supply and water is supplied free by a portable R/O plant run by Water Mission. As I write this we are anchored back at Manjack Cay with no other boats in sight. We will miss the comradery of  beach parties with other boaters but for now all are keeping to ourselves. The govt has issued a 9pm curfew and also no one is allowed to enter anothers home. Inter island travel is restricted so we may stay in Abacoes for a while.

secluded anchorage-Manjack north end

social distancing

the welcoming committee

   

Back in Eleuthera

    In our last post we spent time hopping around some of the more remote islands of what is called the far Bahamas.  The protection offered in the anchorages is only from the prevailing easterly trade winds so we pay close attention to the weather reports which I get each morning at 6:30.  With our fair weather coming to an end in a couple of days we hitail it north.

Rock Sound, Eleuthera
     With a nice SE breeze we set sail under sunny skies just as a giant cruise ship enters the anchorage. With the wind at our backs we make good time but the seas have us rolling about until we turn north around the southern tip of Eleuthera. The hilite of the trip was bringing in a nice 40 inch Mahi followed by a couple of Barricudas. We finish out the trip motoring the 6 miles up Davis Channel into choppy seas into a rain squall.  Anchored by 3 pm after a 7 hour day in the protected waters off Rock Sound where we treated ourselves to a dinner of grilled Mahi and Steak.
     With the arrival of the expected stormy weather we spend the next 4 days catching up on chores such as laundry, baking and shopping for groceries. Joined our friends aboard Will-lo-wind for happy hour one evening and hiked to the ocean beach between showers. During the early morning hours of our 3rd night an unexpected wind shift accompanied by a wild thunderstorm had us up on anchor watch for a few hours as we bounced about.  In the middle of this storm a freighter (mailboat) come thru the anchorage to unload at the Govt pier and I'm sure a few of the boats were on edge as they were anchored close to the narrow channel. The following morning we moved to the now calm  western side of the harbor along with 7 other boats.
   

Governors Harbor 
     With the arrival of fair weather we set off north for a great 6 hour sail to anchor off of this pretty colonial village.  The local mens club hosts a fish fry every Friday with the profits benefiting various local projects.  We make a point to attend whenever we are here and we convinced 6 other boats to join the festivities. Dinner and drinks on the beach was followed by a few of the ladies joining the dancing in the street to a much to loud DJ.
    On Saturday a festival celebrating the Haitian heritage of many of the residents was setting up with loud music set to blast well into the wee hours so we moved to the far corner of the harbor. Glad we did as even from a distance the music was loud.

frying up a mess of snapper at Fish Fry

Alabaster Bay
     A short sail north has us watching storm clouds in the distance and we decided to play it safe and stop for lunch off this beautiful beach. Ended up staying the night and the next morning hiked to a nearby abandoned US Navy base where we spent the morning exploring the ruins and magnificent ocean beaches . I'm always amazed how quickly nature takes over and it seems a shame the buildings haven't been put to a new use.  Apparently the base was used during the Cuban missile crises to keep an eye on Soviet Subs using undersea sonar and was manned by mostly civilian contractors.  We did get to tour the reverse osmosis water plant now run by the local govt that utilizes existing water tanks and wells that draw from a huge concrete catchment basin.

Abandoned Navy Base-large clearing in background is concrete rainwater catchment area, a section not pictured was the base housing near the beach

Hatchet Bay
    A leisurely sail brought us next to the protected harbor of Hatchet Bay.  We were joined for cocktails and my conch fritters by new friends aboard the Ketch S/V Compassion who we have been traveling with the past few days. The main reason for this stop is to get a meal of Stone Crab Claws. The past few times we have stopped they havn't been available so we made sure to get our fill this time. The local fisherman boils the claws then ships them out  by air to the US the evening they come in which makes it hard to catch him.  When we saw the boat going out we knew we would stay a second night just for this delicacy. I purchased two 1 gallon bags stuffed full for $20/bag and we managed to stuff ourselves while freezing half.  Since these sell in Fl for $25-35/lb this is the only time we get this treat.

$20 plate of Stone Crab

Using channel lock pliers to crack the claws

Meeks Patch
    With the winds expected to build we move on thru Current Cut and anchor in the lee of this tiny group of islands. As expected the winds built by nightfall to over 20 kts and held there thru the following day.  Our anchorage was quite pleasant and we spent time walking the beach and exploring.

Spanish Wells
    Since it looks like we will be here for a while waiting for the winds and seas to settle down before we make our next open ocean passage north to the Abacoes we decide to move to town to enjoy what civilization has to offer. With the big winds a dinghy ride from the anchorage wouldn't be pleasant so we  move to a dock are able to snag a private slip from the same owner as we had on our last visit for engine repairs. We convinced our friends on Compassion to join us and  it looks like we will be here for a few days.

     

Finally Moving On

     Having spent nearly 3 weeks in the Georgetown area we finally decide to move on. Since the regatta ended we have been plagued with a low pressure system that has dumped rain and wind for a week. The weather has cleared and even though the winds aren't ideal we head out for Long Island.

Long Island
     With a moderate east wind we motor sail on a course NNE much to tight an angle for us under sail alone. After 28 miles of pounding into the chop we arrive at Hog cay on the north end of Long Island. We spent the afternoon and the next day exploring the creek with extensive sand flats that meander thru the area.

Miles of low tide sand flats to explore

Another day another beach

Conception Island
     Having not visited this uninhabited National Park since 2013 we have been itching to get back to it's pristine beaches and gin clear waters.  Mild weather is a must as the only anchorage offers protection from only east winds. With a few days of moderate tradewinds predicted we head out once again motor sailing into the wind and waves the 29 miles arriving at anchor for a late lunch. The hilite of the trip was bringing in a 50 inch bull Mahi. This made for many meals into the freezer while sharing some with friends Clifford and Adriann on Willow Wind who we have spent time with often the past few years.
    Great weather has us spending time on both the exposed oceanside beach and the protected beach surrounding the anchorage. A happy hour get together on the beach has us joining   couples from the 6 other boats we share this spot with.

Biggest Mahi yet

oceanside beach video- Conception

Cat Island- McQueens

     While the weather is favorable we set sail downwind for the southern tip of Cat Island where after a long 6 hour sail we anchor in Old Byte off the tiny settlement of McQueens. A hike around the area found mostly abandonded houses and not much in the way of civilization. Like many of the towns in the far Islands there isn't much to keep the young people there and they move to the big cities of Nassau and Freeport as soon as they are able.

Coconut water for skyjuce (gin, condensed milk, Coconut water)

      New Bight- We set off the few miles to anchor for lunch and for a hike to visit the Hermitage which is situated  atop Mt Alverna boasting the highest point in the Bahamas at a whopping 206 ft.  The Hermitage was built by Father Jerome as his retirement home after spending his life building numerous churches throughout the islands.

Mt Alverna

Hermitage

     Fernandez Bay-A short sail north brought us to this tiny cove where we anchor for a peaceful evening.
     
Little San Salvadore

     Continuing on our way north while the weather holds we sail another 6 hours to Halfmoon Bay where we once again meet up with friends on Willow Wind and they join us aboard for Happy Hour.  If this island sounds familiarit's because we have stopped here twice already on this trip when we had to backtrack for our engine repairs. The beach and water here are pristine but it's a cruise ship day stop so it can get crowded when a ship is in.  

Hangin out in Georgetown

    We usually try to be here in time for the Family Islands Regatta and this year we arrived a few days early in order to make the ocean passage before the winds build once again.
     As many as 300 cruising boats call Georgetown home for the winter since heading further south calls for long  overnite ocean passages thru some very remote islands. This has earned it the nickname "Chicken Harbor".  This small town welcomes the influx of boaters and offers all the amenities a cruiser requires. The local grocery is well stocked boasting easy access with a large dingy dock and also free R/O water.  The harbor is actually what is called a roadstead and is quite large at 1 mile wide and 2 miles long. Depending on the wind direction boaters can find protection in it's many anchorages but as winds shift the "Georgetown Shuffle" begins as boats reanchor in a more sheltered spot. Stocking Island is mostly uninhabited with numerous beaches and hiking trails and this is where most of the action is.  Yoga, water aerobics, poker, volleyball, trivia, open mike and lectures are but a few of the activities organized by the cruising community. The problem with this Island anchorage is the dinghy ride to town is at least a mile and when the wind is up it makes for a wet ride.

another secluded beach- Elizabeth Is

   
Family Islands Regatta
     This year marks the 66th year this event has been held. The regatta lasts 5 days and is a festival that attracts thousands of Bahamians to participate in the shoreside activities.  Over 70 traditional sloops from all over the islands participate in 5 days of racing in classes ranging from the E class 12 ft boats to the  A class 28 footers. The  festivities go on well into the night with live concerts and we have learned to anchor well away from town.

starting line- anchors set, sails down

our vantage point off the stern of friends boat- to close for comfort

hiking out class A

Crab Cay Anchorage
     One of our favorite spots that gives us the serenity of a quiet anchorage but is still less than a mile to town is the abandoned harbor at Crab Cay. This development was started about 20 years ago but has been basically left to the elements after construction of a beautiful stone bridge, dredging a 40 acre harbor with a canal to nowhere, miles of roads with buried utilities and a stunning welcome center.
     We spend much of our time hiking the miles of roads and trails, enjoying beautiful beaches and exploring ruins dating back to the 1700's.

exploring ruins

welcome center

more abandoned welcome center

bridge to nowhere

unfinished canal

 

on to Georgetown

     We ave enjoyed our time at the dock in Spanish Wells, but with our repairs complete it's time to move on. Chris especially liked having all the hot water she wanted. We normally are very conservative with our water and heat it off the engine. Long showers are a treat. It was nice being at a dock but also noisy as we were close to the main waterfront street and much of the traffic is golfcarts which are louder than cars.

Ship Channel Cay
     Heading out early we had a mix of good sailing then motorsailing for 9 hours back south to Ship Channel Cay in Northern Exuma. Anchored off the beach late afternoon then went conch hunting where I was able to pick up 6 nice conch. I was going to say caught them but since they move at a snails pace that wouldn't be very accurate. The trick is finding them, the young ones stand out because of their shiny shell but as they grow they also build up a layer of grassy growth that makes them blend in with their surroundings.

Shroud Cay
     On the move again while the winds are in our favor we sail south 4 hours to Shroud Cay in the Exuma National Park. This preserve stretches 22 nm along the chain of islands and encompasses both private and public cays. It is a no take zone which makes the snorkeling excellent. We spent the afternoon exploring and hanging out on one of it's many pristine beaches. 

Wardrick Wells
     One of our favorite stops is the protected mooring field at the park headquarters. With stormy weather expected we motor south into a rough chop the 13 miles to our reserved mooring. Spent Sun and Mon hiking the trails, snorkeling and lazing on the beach. Tradition calls for visiting boats to leave a driftwood sign atop Boo Boo hill  and we added a 9th  year to our boat sign.

Chris filling in my carving with nail polish, we forgot paint

atop boo boo hill

Rudder Cay
     With winds finally coming from the north we opt to move south for a great 40 st mi. run to anchor at Rudder Cay. We flew by many of our favorite stops but decided to take advantage of the winds to move to Georgetown in time for Regatta.

Georgetown
     Still working south we motor sail 36 st mi to Stocking Island to anchor at Monument beach.  This past week we have covered about 150 nm(173 statute mi) with only one lay day.  We plan to hang out here for a while to enjoy the festivities that go along with the Family Islands Regatta.   
      

Week 6-engine repairs,

  Spanish Wells
       Sunday morning April 6th dawned sunny, warm and breezy. We tacked the couple of miles to drop anchor off the channel into Spanish Wells and after a  dinghy ride in to check on the dock we had reserved we motored in and got tied up. Finding this dock was a lifesaver as the local marina would have charged us almost $100/day while we payed $18/day inc electric for this spot.  Later in the afternoon we stopped in at Dun Rovin cottage to visit our friends Tom and Jean and ended up staying for happy hour. This couple has been boating in this area from the Chesapeake for the past 30 years and have owned a cottage in the village since the 90's. Their living room is set up as a book exchange library and they welcome boaters to visit.
    We were able to rent a golf cart as we expected to be here a while as we await the arrival of our  parts.  Days were spent wandering the miles of sandy beaches, a few lunches out and running errands. Tom, Jean and Toms brother joined us for happy hour on Monday and I served my specialty- conch fritters. Jean volunteers at the local museum and we joined another cruising family for a tour while Jean gave an interesting talk on the islands rich history.
    Thursday morning my parts arrived on the ferry from Nassau and I was able to take the exhaust manifold to a local mechanic where I watched in horror waiting for something to shatter as he used torches and a 3 ft wrench with a 2 ft extension to work the  parts free. I had already crushed the bad elbow while removing it and was able to breathe a sigh of relief  when the adjoining parts separated.  With the repaired assembly in hand I had it reinstalled and ready to roll by mid day.

     Spanish Wells is a unique village compared to the rest of the Bahamas. A walk about this quaint town shows the pride the residents take in their surroundings.  Settled in the mid 1600's by puritans from Bermuda who were shipwrecked off it's shores the four family names of these original settlers are still the prominent names seen around town. This all white community is very close knit with businesses such as the supermarket and electric company owned as a co-op. The main business here is lobstering and the dozen or so boats such as the one pictured below that make this harbor home are owned by groups of fishermen each sharing the profits. These boats go out for a month or more at a stretch to scour the distant waters diving for lobster which are then frozen in the hold. Each boat will tow as many as 6 runabouts manned by 2 owners each and equipped with hooka diving rigs. 

our home for the week tied up behind the lobster boat the Cracker Prince

totally corroded exhaust elbow(looked fine from above until I moved the hoses for a better view)

miles of sandy beaches surround the town on 3 sides sides 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Week five- moving east

The past week has been marked by a stretch of great weather with warm sunshine under blue skies. As I mentioned in last weeks post we were waiting on the weather forecast to decide our next destination as we leave Plumb Creek in South Eleuthera. With lite east wind motoring was called for to head for either Exuma or the far islands to the east. We opted for the short 18 nm trip east to the anchorage at Little San Salvador.

Little San Salvador (AKA Halfmoon Cay)
     This island is owned by the Carnival group which includes Princess, Holland America and numerous others and is operated as a day stop for their ships. We love this crescent shaped harbor and  have visited here numerous times both on our own and aboard cruise ships. It boasts one of the most beautiful beaches we have found as long as you are here when there isn't a ship in. Even then they normally leave late afternoon and we have never been questioned for wandering the beach. Bahamas law states that all beaches are public up to the high water line but some private islands can make it unpleasant to go ashore (think roaming guard dogs).

Half Moon Bay all to ourselves

Cat Island
     With another calm day we continue motoring 18nm east to anchor in Bennetts Harbor. On arrival I noticed exhaust smell in the cabin and upon inspection found a crack in the elbow off our engine that mixes sea water with exhaust to cool the exhaust system. Digging further I found major corrosion indicating complete failure was imminent leaving us unable to run the engine. The decision was made to backtrack under sail the 120nm (approx 140 miles) to Spanish Wells where facilities for repairs were available. My first attempt at a temporary fix using JB Weld epoxy failed but a second try seems to be holding allowing us to use the motor in an emergency.

Life's a beach-Cat Island

Little San Salvador
      After 2 calm nights anchored at Cat waiting for some wind and allowing my patches to harden the promised trade winds started building and we set sail (slowly) back west for another quiet night in Halfmoon Bay.

South Eleuthera-Plum Creek 
      The east winds have built by morning allowing us a moderate but rolly downwind sail back across this ocean exposed stretch of rough water to anchor once again in Plum Creek. From here the normal route would take us thru northern Eleuthera and Current Cut but this involves transiting a narrow 7 mile  channel thru shallows then later the swift currents in Current Cut. Not wanting to run the motor any more than necessary we opted for the downwind sail across the exposed waters of Exuma Sound for a stop in Northern Exuma.


North Exuma, Ship Channel Cay
      With winds predicted to be in the upper teens we loaded the dingy on deck and prepared for a rough crossing. Thankfully the strong winds didn't materialize but we still had a brisk but rolly downwind sail the 40 st miles to a protected anchorage. The hi-lite of the trip was finally having some luck fishing. As we approached our destination but still in water 3000 ft deep we caught a nice Mahi (Dolphin Fish) and not long after lost another due to a knot failing attaching my hook to leader. You would think I would be getting better at these knots by now!

finally some luck

what does this portend? good weather I hope!

North Eleuthra- Meeks Patch
      Another day of favorable trade winds has us moving north at our best point of sail dodging the coral heads in the shallow waters leading to Fleming Channel. We covered the 50 miles in 7.5 hours making for some great sailing.

dodging coral heads in 12 ft of water

the view from the helm, wing on wing

     We are currently anchored 2 miles off Spanish Wells where we hope to have a slip where I can pull the engine to gain access to remove the failed part. Have ordered parts out of the Yanmar dealer in Nassau that once they arrive in Nassau will have to pass thru customs then be sent by ferry to here. I actually have the needed part sitting at home in Fl but the logistics involved in getting it here seemed daunting. Have spoken to a local mechanic who I hope can assist with big wrenches and torch to remove the elbow. We may be here a while but a great place to be stranded. Needless to say the past week has been rather stressful but we handled it well. It was quite satisfying to be a true sailboat but the good weather made it enjoyable.
    Our plan for today (Sun) is to get the dinghy back in the water and sail the short hop to anchor off the entrance to Spanish Wells where we can dinghy in to check things out.